Beauty / Society

Yin your skin: Understanding the ancient tradition of Gua Sha

By Johanna Ljunggren

Photo: @shshiya

A trending concept in skincare is targeting the lymphatic systems to clear out waste and bacteria from underneath the skin. Could Gua Sha help you glow from the inside out?

Naturally, during the most intense lockdown periods, interest in DIY treatments escalated rapidly. Social media was overrun with live streams offering at-home routines for every imaginable skin concern. Brands found an effective outlet to sell products when lockdown made it impossible for most customers to make it to a store.

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Enter Gua Sha, a technique based on traditional Chinese medicine, whose cultural roots have been slightly lost amongst today's woo-woo wellness wheel. The practice was used traditionally for two conditions – as a go-to for helping with seasonal viruses and diseases, and to treat symptoms of heatstroke and exhaustion amongst farmers.

Using spoons and stone tools of all shapes and sizes, pressure is applied to the skin, said to release toxins and aid spinal and lower back pain. Some traditionally trained therapists still use this technique, along with the popular facial sculpting version using tools made in jade, rose or clear quartz.

Acknowledging the heritage of traditional Chinese medicine and other practices like Ayurveda can help us learn more about different cultures. Facial benefits were only realised later and kicked off in the West when skin enthusiasts started craving a more holistic approach to beauty routines. The skin is a map of what's happening in the body; too much oxidative stress can lead to sensitised skin.

With the advent of TikTok culture, miracles in a jar and tech-savvy ingredients function as click-baits. But Gua Sha goes beyond surface level. "Skincare products target the surface of the skin, whereas the impacts of facial Gua Sha go way deeper – where genuine, long-term results take place," says Katja Kokko, a Finish beauty therapist and acupuncture specialist trained in traditional Chinese medicine.

Kokko has developed 'Yin Your Skin': two online courses that teach some of the best facial techniques. Shot in a serene Nordic yoga studio in Finland, the approach merges Nordic wellness with Asian wisdom. "It's essential to hold the tool at the right angle, almost flat, with only the tool's pressure," according to Kokko. The slight redness of the skin after being scraped is called 'sha", hence the name Gua Sha.

"If you push too hard, there's a risk that the lymph fluid will drain back into the nodes around the ears and neck and not move towards the lymph ducts near the collar bones, resulting in puffiness. You know you've pressed too hard if you look scarlet," Kokko advises. Pinpoint the areas you want to focus on, the jawline, cheeks or lips, and go extra gentle around the eyes. Sculpt, contour and plump those areas. Target acupressure points, press and pull gently with the opposite hand to resist the skin being overstretched, pause, and wiggle when the tool touches bone.

So, what are the benefits?

It helps increase circulation, improves muscle tone alongside meridians and acupressure points, floods the skin with nutrients, releases toxins from the lymphatic system, improves collagen and elastin levels, and removes puffiness and congestion. While the immediate results won't last, doing it at home two to three times a week will create long-term effects. And according to Kokko,, "it promotes a more forgiving philosophy to skincare."

"Instead of preventing signs of ageing, facial Gua Sha aims to make you a more vibrant and healthier version of yourself." If you want to visit a professional, Dana Nell, skin therapist at Heat in Stockholm, responsible for creating the sought-out 'Skinphoria Face Workout', is a must.