It's not just your own algorithm. 30 years on, the '90s greats are experiencing a viral renaissance via a new generation of admirers on TikTok
Brandi Quinones. Shalom Harlow. Yasmeen Ghuari. Karen Mulder. Claudia Schiffer.
These names dominated the runways once upon a time (and by that we mean the ’80s and the ’90s.) But, today, they’re increasingly dominating social media feeds via throwback clips and odes.
The videos – like a lot of algorithm-primed fashion content of late (see: Get Ready With Me videos) – are straight-forward and simple, yet addictive. An account like @vanitycoke is a great example. They’ll show a recent soundbite of Tyra Banks espousing the hypnotic allure of Yasmeen Ghuari’s strut. “Yasmeen had the walk of life,” Banks says, each syllable packed with admiration. “When she would walk, it was like her hips would dis-lo-cate.” Then, boom! A montage of Yasmeen’s hips. A glamorous, bass-heavy dance track plays over the vintage clips, sounding like something that belongs on the playlist of a Forever 21 store. As of writing, the post has received over 430,000 likes.
Plenty of other great accounts post similar odes. Some of my favourites include @babybella, @iconicrunwaymoments and @futuresuperm0del0 over on TikTok, @90sallure on Instagram and the account Fashion Runway on YouTube. There are particular obsessions present across all of these adoring hobbyist accounts. These include Todd Oldham shows (perhaps because the designer particularly encouraged his models to let loose – which bred enchanting results), the Fashion Channel logo and anything to do with Naomi Campbell (understandably).
The videos operate as fabulous blasts to the past. There will be a clip of an iconic show – say, the surf-centric Chanel spring 2003 show, or Mugler spring 1997 – and a remix of a trending song playing over the clip (“Bad Romance” chopped and screwed, or “Maneater” deconstructed, perhaps). The resulting creation is easy to watch over and over on a loop. Which, of course, is the point. These videos are tinkered for attention, engagement and shares. The speed is dialled up a smidge, or the music is loud and high-pitched, or a frantic montage of a model’s storied career is spliced together with a special focus placed on yass-inducing moments. For a second, you’re transported to another moment and era in time.
Sure, we see runway shows all the time. But these videos, which often feature super close crops on the models, call special attention to the models and what they bring to the table. On a deeper level, they highlight the oft under-appreciated art of the catwalk. They also illustrate that no two iconic catwalks are made the same. A montage of Tyra Banks highlights her endearingly playful, bouncy, almost flirtatious approach to the catwalk (especially during Victoria’s Secrets shows). While clips of Claudia Schiffer showcase her bubbly and sexy strut. It becomes clear: There are varied, sleight of hand approaches to the craft. It’s something worth watching and appreciating.
Personally, I love when the legacy of the reality competition show America’s Next Top Model shows up in the comments section. Viewers will turn their reactions into an informal panel critique. “Naomi Campbell holds power in her walk,” one person writes. “Like a jungle cat. Wow.” “The way Vlada hair bounces when she walks is just everything,” one more wrote. Another person goes, “Ugh this is the reason why I LOVE 90s supermodels more than any current model is because of these girls’ expressions! They look like they’re having fun! They’re sassy, smiling – it’s entertaining!” To which the account runner of @90sallure responded, “Same.”