Here's how these Scandi design mainstays have managed to keep ahead of the crowd in the notoriously hard-to-navigate fashion industry. Rikke Baumgarten, Stand Studio's Nellie Kamras and more share their top advice...
The world of fashion design is fast paced and, often, cut-throat. Brands come and go, trends come and go, and having real staying power is an accomplishment in and of itself. Nevertheless, there are quite a few Scandinavian designers who have been making an impact for years, whether it be through their creative vision, their branding, or the way they showcase the values and aesthetic of Nordic design, so what's their secret?
Here, four top Scandi designers who have proven that they’re here to stay, share what they wish they had known when they started out.
Ervin Latimer of Latimmier
Finnish designer Ervin Latimer debuted his ready-to-wear label Latimmier during Pitti Uomo AW22. His collections explore and play with the performance of masculinity in a joyful yet sharp way.
Latimer's experience in the fashion industry began in 2018, when he graduated from Alto University in Helsinki and began working for Alyx under Matthew M. Williams. When it comes to imparting his advice, he suggests: “Don’t worry about doing things the way you think a young designer or fashion student should do, do them how you want to do them.”
Photo: Hayley Le
Fortunately, he did get some good advice from someone else when he was still a fresh designer, saying that he should stay strong in his conviction and not be diverted from his path: “Just because some important person doesn’t understand what you’re discussing with your designs doesn’t mean they aren’t valid.”
But granted, not all advice is worth its weight, so keep that in mind too. The tip he got, but wish he hadn’t listened to, Ervin says, was “the idea that working in fashion is supposed to be exhausting, submissive, and monetarily abusive and I shouldn’t complain about it.” Amen to that.
Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave of Baum und Pferdgarten
Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave run one of the most successful and influential Danish fashion brands on the market: Baum und Pferdgarten. Their quirky, joyful sense of colour and silhouette has permeated the industry. Having worked together since 1999, their advice is invaluable to others in the fashion world.
The best insight the duo say they got when they started out is, “Even if you can't afford it, you should get an accountant. When you're a young designer, it's creativity that drives you and finances can be a nightmare. It may seem expensive and unmanageable, but it can pay off. That way, you can concentrate on your creativity and have peace of mind about the financial part that a design company of all sizes requires.”
Photo: Baum und Pferdgarten
To themselves as young designers, and to anyone starting out really, they would suggest that you don't always have to go it alone, working with others can prove a strength. “Team up with someone. You can't be good at everything. It has been crucial for us to start together as a team. Looking back, it would have been even more ideal to have a partner with us who has greater financial understanding than us.”
They also note that not all advice is useful or needs to make its way into your work. Rikke and Helle say, “Sort through the advice you get. People have an extremely wide range of opinions on what you should do and what direction you should go in. But not all advice is good advice!”
Frank Remme of frankremme
Frank Remme launched his eponymous brand in 2014. The Norwegian's focus is on silhouette and proportion, with often slightly avant-garde shapes. All pieces are made from deadstock or stock materials.
“Trust your intuition and be humble to knowledge that gets passed on to you,” is what he'd tell his younger self today if he could. He adds: “Believe in the initial idea and stay true to your aesthetics.”
Photo: Frank Remme.
As for bad advice? We’ve all gotten it, but this one takes the cake. Remme says he was once told, “Never make dresses without sleeves. Women over 30 will never wear them!”
Nellie Kamras of Stand Studio
As founder and creative director of Stand Studio, Nellie Karmas has been producing creative outerwear that Swedes – and the in-the-known fashion set – have loved since 2014.
When she was starting out, she was given the advice to “always trust your gut feeling” which is a sentiment that feels relevant for both business but in other areas of life too, such as friendships or relationships. If she could reach back in time and impart some words of help to her young self, she would say that it's definitely not going to be easy. “Believe in yourself, and be prepared to work hard. This is a tough industry and nothing comes for free.”
Photo: Nellie Karmas.
Luckily, bad advice has just slid off her back. Karmas explains, “I have been quite good at not listening to bad pieces of advice!”