Unsuited: How to reinvent the classic workwear staple for summer 2022

The suit never strays too far from any runway. But this season, the mainstay of both menswear and womenswear is stripped back. Gone is fussy formality, replaced with an altogether more deconstructed approach. Blazers are worn askew or not at all and matching sets are eschewed in favour of clashing textures. Bralettes take the place of blouses and practical fabrics jolt staples out of their comfort zones. Hems are shorter and more dramatic and wearing prim socks and patent courts should only occur if done in stark contrast to high-leg bodysuits and pearl-clutching skirt lengths.

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This wild and wonderful take on tailoring was a welcome burst of playfulness on the SS22 catwalk. There were cropped jackets and full tulle shirts at Alexander McQueen, oversized blazers and fairy-tale silhouettes at Louis Vuitton and lemon-yellow skirt suits of mismatched lengths at Chanel. Even Lanvin’s suitably sensible taupe suits had exaggerated dimensions, bold floral corsages and open jackets to reveal tropical print bras.

Suiting today is taking its cues from our ongoing love affair with underwear as outerwear. You need only take a glance at the flesh baring looks served up by brands of the moment, like Nensi Dojaka, for sheer, boudoir-worthy inspiration. Accordingly, this season’s suits are not boardroom staples but are instead prepped for playtime. Take Sportsmax’s wool stretch structured navy bodysuit or Alaia’s show-stopping hooded number: the epitome of tailoring for after hours.

Or, for a more laid back take on lingerie-meets-Savile-Row; team a pair of supremely tailored trousers with a matching bralette, like Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s white cotton pair and a wool blend crop from Jonathan Simkhai.

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There's an attitude to this new suiting, and suits designed for cheek may well bare a fair few. After all, the micro mini dominated the SS22 catwalks, from Bottega to Versace and – of course – that mini belted Miu Miu microscopic number. So, raise eyebrows with your hemlines, like with Balenciaga’s barely-there wool skirt, but combine it with buttoned-up shirting from Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier. Be inspired by the mischievous pairing of a classic Chanel checked quilted jacket with Anthony Vacarello’s tiniest of high-rise shorts for Saint Laurent. Wear yours with patent leather Mary Janes for a flirtatious take on preppy chic.

Unexpected pairings are exactly what keeps modern suiting fresh this season. Pair a bustier dress with the tailoring separate of the moment: a waistcoat – like this wool example from The Garment. A simple white cotton tank top can also bring new energy and a sense of paired-back cool to even the most austere of suits, like Valentino’s black wool blazer. Or you can dial down the formality even more with a pair of black rubber boots. But make them Chanel, naturally.

As ever, it is all about making bold and interesting choices with your fabrics. You can temper sexier separates with the clean woollen unfussiness of a Prada jumper or see how Zadig & Voltaire’s traditional two-piece trouser suit comes alive in that most tactile of materials – velvet.

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A classic black overcoat gets a jazzy update in neoprene, thanks to Dolce & Gabbana and, of course, one should never discount leather – whatever the weather. The SS22 shows were drenched in the biker aesthetic, from Supriya Lele to Richard Quinn. Keen for a Hells’ Angels edge to your look? Anthony Vacarello’s leather separates for Saint Laurent are the ultimate way to inject a sense of modern sex appeal to the staidest of ensembles.

So, this season, suit up, because there’s now a million different ways to do it.