Pearls, sequins and leather might be having a moment but they aren't always good for the environment. Here's how to to wear 2022’s biggest trends consciously
When the turn of the new year came, we welcomed the fresh ideas, renewed hope, and a whole lot of fashion weeks. As we followed the runways reverently, we spotted the trend to keep in mind for the coming seasons – and a few seeping over from 2021. Looking at trend analysis tools to align our predictions – such as Pinterest’s recent analysis – we’ve concluded that some significant sartorial moments are yet to come. The likes of pearlcore, gothic and celestial styles have started to infiltrate our everyday.
However it’s easy to forget the impact that the relentless trend/cycle and new fashions can have on the planet. We’re here to help you work some of 2022’s potentially problematic pieces in a stylish but conscious way.
Pearlcore
Since Harry Styles began slinging on a string of pearls with everything from a broderie anglaise collar to just a yellow hat, the once preppy gems have regained rock and roll credentials. At the Dolce & Gabbana autumn/winter 2022 men’s fashion show, Machine Gun Kelly wore a pearl encrusted double breasted suit to open the proceedings. Right now, they seem to be adorning every possible surface, from shoes and cardigans to lamps and manicures.
The ethereal pearl has been considered precious for centuries. Julius Caesar supposedly declared that the gem could only be worn by the ruling class, meanwhile it has long been favoured by Scandinavian royalty. At one point in the 17th century, all pearls in Norway belonged to the Danish crown, and at a recent outing in Stockholm, Princess Sofia of Sweden wore a pair of statement ruby and pearl earrings.
Machine Gun Kelly at Dolce & Gabbana AW 2022 men’s fashion show. Photo: Getty
It’s unsurprising that the gems were so coveted, as only one in around 10,000 molluscs naturally produce them. A pearl is created by a bivalve when an irritant makes its way inside its shell. In defence, the creature secretes a fluid to coat it and when this builds up, it turns into a hard and iridescent bead.
Now, many pearl producing species are protected, however at the end of the 19th century, cultured pearl production was invented, which meant that molluscs could be encouraged to produce pearls if they were implanted with a foreign object. This is where the ethics regarding pearls become complicated. Technically, the gem isn’t vegan because it’s made by a living organism that is, in fact, subjected to stress. Additionally, in some parts of the world, pearl fishing can also be damaging to marine life. If you’re uneasy about the cultured pearl process, then the natural choice would – of course – be to go faux, however many of these versions are made from non-biodegradable materials such as plastics and resin.
Mia Larsson’s oyster shell creations are made from recycled sea shells. Photo: Josefine Laul
If you still fancy donning some yourself – and according to Coco Chanel, a woman needs ‘ropes and ropes’ – then it really depends on your stance. If you are drifting towards real pearls, we recommend making sure that they’re sourced from highly ethical farms such as Mikimoto’s fisheries in Japan where Akora pearls are produced or Kamoka Pearl in French Polynesia where Tahitian pearls are farmed. Tiffany & Co is a virtuous choice too – the jeweller associated with one of fashion’s most famous pearl wearers, Audrey Hepburn, is committed to supporting ocean conservation across the globe. Of course, buying vintage is an excellent way to stay conscious, or you could go completely avant garde and invest in a pair of Mia Larsson’s oyster shell creations instead…
Celestial
As space exploration becomes more and more within our reach, it seems we’re dressing the part too. And why wouldn’t we want to? This trend is upbeat, disco-inspired and twinkly – Pernille Teisbaek and Emili Sindlev have both been recently spotted embracing the shimmer in one of the year’s most playful shapes, the mini skirt.
One of the most effective ways of creating some sparkle is by donning sequins or glitter, however these microplastic adornments are far from kind to the environment and mostly end up in our oceans and rivers. There are some exciting sustainable versions in the making though. Radiant Matter has invented bio iridescent sequins made from 100 per cent plant based cellulose that reflects light naturally. They were used to create two accessory collaborations with BEEN London and Patrick McDowell at the end of last year, and more exciting brand collaborations are in the pipeline for 2022.
While we await these exciting announcements, it’s best to only buy vintage sequinned garments or opt for other types of metallics, like brocade, recycled metals or foiled materials such as vegan leather. If you prefer a more subtle take, then why not invest in a piece of zodiac jewellery like an Alighieri horoscope ring, or perhaps one of Ganni’s cloudlike puff sleeve pieces? Meanwhile, those who like to subvert trends altogether might be interested in a suit patterned with constellations from the Dior Chez Moi capsule collection…
Ganni spring/summer 2022. Photo: Ganni SS22
Gothic
Machine Gun Kelly and Megan Fox began the year by getting engaged and drinking each other’s blood, indicating that the goth revival of 2021 is still going strong… But there’s no need for any fear in your once kohl-rimmed eyes, because this time high-fashion brands are on board and the trend is far more grown-up.
Leather continues to dominate collections, with trousers, shorts, and full length coats popping up at labels like Soulland and Saks Potts. Prominent leather items such as these can often divide opinion however, since even vegan options can be mostly made of damaging plastics. Look to brands like the above that use polyurethane rather than PVC, or choose plant-based versions like the mushroom-based Mylo Unleather or Piñatex, which is made from pineapple plant leaves. Alternatively, hunt for vintage pieces instead of buying new – due to the material’s durability, there are always some treasures waiting to be discovered.
A Stella McCartney garment made from Mylo Unleather. Photo: Stella McCartney
It’s possible to embrace the dark side without having to navigate the world of vegan leather though. Upcoming collections from Ganni and Rotate Sunday feature grungy crochet pieces, while Saint Laurent’s elegant bustiers are made from recycled and sustainably sourced materials. Finally, The Garment’s carbon offset Oslo dress features bold stitch detailing that adds just the slightest hint of spooky…
Look to The Garment for a dose of goth. Photo: The garment
Silk loungewear
After what seems like years of athleisure dominating our wardrobes, it’s time to leave the sweatpants behind and luxuriate our loungewear. The party pyjama was a popular look at the end of last year, and we believe it’s set to continue. But while one of the most decadent materials to lounge in is, of course, silk, sericulture can present some problems.
In a similar vein to pearls, the material isn’t technically vegan because silk worms are sacrificed in order to extract the fibres from their cocoons. While there is another method of extraction, which makes what is known as Peace Silk, the threads that are collected are often weaker because the moth has been allowed to fly out of the cocoon. Due to human interference in their development, the moths only actually survive for a couple of days at most anyway. Out of all fabrics, silk production also has one of the highest impacts on the environment. It uses gallons of water and in some parts of the world, toxic chemicals too.
Photo: Sleeper
Luckily, there are plenty of sleek alternatives available. Sleeper’s party pyjamas are made from Oeko-Tex® certified viscose, while Orchard Moon uses Tencel® and lyocell filament to create a satiny effect. Ethical fashion icon Stella McCartney has also developed a brand new synthetic spider silk called Microsilk™ with Bolt Threads, and If it’s in any way as innovative as mushroom leather, we can’t wait to slip into the results…