Tiger of Sweden - AW24

For autumn/winter '23, Tiger of Sweden is fully embracing its name. The latter half, specifically. “You can’t escape the ‘Sweden’ in this brand,” says creative director Bryan Conway. “We’re really trying to create a fashion house, a heritage brand. You have the French ones, you have the proper English ones, you have the Italian ones, but what is the Swedish version of that?” For Conway, a Swedish heritage brand is rooted in the notion of ‘something for everyone’. “It’s really this democratic place where everyone from 18 to 75 can find something,” he says. “It’s a balance of making things that people respond to and love wearing and a brand environment that welcomes everyone.”

Fittingly, this collection finds its muse in an artist and activist whose work contributed towards making Sweden the sort of progressive place that would boast a democratic heritage brand. Best known for her installation of etchings at Stockholm’s Ostermalmstorg station, Siri Derkert championed a message of belonging, establishing herself as somewhat of a feminist hero. “From the '40s, she was really focused on public art,” says Conway. “Art for everyone.”

While Conway oft finds his starting point for a collection in silhouette, this time around he began with the materials. Inspired by the textures in Derket’s work as well as the sturdy practicality of the artist’s attire, he laid out a smorgasbord of heavy Swedish wools, houndstooths and herringbones. “It really started with touching and feeling and putting stuff together,” he says. “It just felt right.”

The result is an offering that revels in Scandi practicality. Take the heavy double-breasted wool coat with a shearling collar, for instance, or the leather utility pants for both men and women. Then there’s the layering – delicate marino wool turtlenecks with a split collar beneath shirts and cosy sweaters. The sort of looks that one could wear while sculpting for hours in a frigid subway station. On the feet, a trusty pair of worker’s boots, rendered in coated suede. The outerwear is heavy, the sweaters are scratchy. Everything gets better with wear. As Conway, who as we chat wears a cream wool sweater from the collection, puts it: “You know you’re wearing it once you put it on.”

See the full collection below: