This is exactly what pollution is doing to your skin

You only have to look at the thick film of oily soot on city buildings to know what your skin is up against in the city air. And yes, it’s cause for alarm. The warm gust from a car exhaust releases a toxic cocktail of nitrogen dioxide and particles known as particulate matter (PM2.5), which, once inside your pores, causes a chain reaction that starts with oxidative stress and leads to inflammation and premature ageing.

“Air pollution breaks down our collagen and oxidises the lipid layer in the skin – fats that bind skin cells together for a strong skin barrier," says Henrik Bigelius. He has made anti-pollution a core tenet of his brand Bigelius Skincare after experiencing first hand its devastating effects while working in Beijing. "Pollutants also generate a wide range of free radicals, which can place skin cells in a state of oxidative stress, triggering skin sensitivity and a whole range of issues such as pigmentation, blemishes, breakouts and a dull, sallow complexion.”

The issue is so extreme that a study by Proctor & Gamble revealed that the skin of women living in urban areas is more likely to age 10 per cent faster than those living in the countryside. Another study in Germany found that city-based women experienced around 22 per cent more hyperpigmentation than rural dwellers.

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So what can be done? Pollution is unavoidable if you live or work in the city, which approximately 87 per cent of Swedes do. The importance of a solid cleansing regime, especially at night, cannot be overstated in order to remove particulate matter trapped in layers of SPF and makeup. Arming yourself with an urban skincare routine can also help and, thankfully, the big beauty players are stepping in with a new guard of skincare products dubbed “pollution protection.”

The most new-fangled of these pollutant protectors are face mists that form an invisible, breathable film over the top of your skin. It makes sense, says Bigelius, as “our skin is our first line of defence against the outside world.” The hero ingredient in Bigelius Skincare's Facial Mist is 'pollustop' (technical name Biosaccharide Gum-4) made from a natural sugar derivative that binds to free radicals, essentially forming a 'second skin' barrier to shield skin from atmospheric pollution (carbon particles, particulate matter and heavy metals) and indoor pollution caused, for example, by cleaning products.

Ren’s Flash Defence Anti-Pollution Mist uses a similar technology while Verso Anti Pollution Protecting & Strengthening Mist cites a metal-binding polymer as its active ingredient, which is designed to prevent damage caused by heavy metal particles in the atmosphere.

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Given that pollution can tear tiny holes in the skin’s barrier, ingredients that are able to hydrate, strengthen and protect it will also keep pollution out. Look to niacinamide in Bjork & Berries Vitamin Moisturiser and hyaluronic acid, which Woods Copenhagen uses in tandem with antioxidant sea buckthorn in its Intense Hyaluronic Mask, to boost skin’s defences.

You also want antioxidants, which neutralise heavy metals and combat the destruction of collagen by free radicals. Dr Barbara Sturm’s Anti Pollution Drops lean on microorganisms found in French Polynesia to protect against smog while Lumene’s Nordic-C Glow Boost Vitamin C Hyaluronic Essence combines vitamins C with flavonoids, phenolic acids and polymeric tannins from Nordic cloudberries for a more potent hit. Ultimately, be diligent about applying these ingredients on days when the Air Quality Index (AQI) rises above 25.