Not so innocent: Why it’s time to re-think white this season

White makes an unavoidable statement, and wearing it head-to-toe is this season’s calling card. Saint Laurent’s floor-length white gown is a showstopper and Isabelle Marant’s silk jumpsuit is just the right side of Rosie the Riveter chic, blending sensuality and practicality in a boyish, effortless piece that nonetheless makes an impact. Then, just look at the undeniable drama of Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s snow-hued bodysuits. There’s a kinetic whisper to these pieces, which straddle raciness and athleticism with aplomb. The milky tone implies an innocence belied by the skin-tight fit, and the technical fabric imbues these looks with just the mere suggestion of Olympic vigour.

If there was one colour that dominated the SS22 runways, it was white. From The Row’s signature minimalism and sharp white cottons at Peter Mulier to full-looks at Chloé and trouser suits at Valentino, this dazzling hue shone brightly. There was a clean, fresh start to the application of white this season- a fitting tribute to a bold new hopefulness creeping into our post-pandemic age.

When it comes to colour; white is laden with connotations. It is, of course, not a colour at all, but the very absence of it, and on to its signature blank space, have been written myriad meanings: pure, fresh innocence, clean sterility. Yet white is much more than the sum of its bridal gowns and angel clouds, bare walls and clean pages. There is a subtle power play to this hue and not just that of the enviable nonchalance of a woman who can wear all white and not spill.

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Fabric is key to how white can be reframed this season. Undercut its more virginal associations and wear white in robust, durable materials, like latex and denim. White is both sexy and powerful in Louis Vuitton’s patent leather trousers with gilt accents, and feels practical in Alexander McQueen’s sporty shirtdress with pleated parachute sleeves. Meanwhile, Gucci’s ruffled silk scarf takes white in another direction, indulging its frothier, more playful side, for an effect that is no less commanding.

These interesting textures and unexpected proportions steer white away from its minimal credentials. Coperni leans into white’s pearlescent palette and its iridescent shell embroidered bra is a mermaid fantasy. Undercover’s white jacket gets a sprinkling of drama with its embroidered feathers and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini’s lace trousers are anything but boring. The clean sportiness of crop tops gives white a lively new silhouette and Hermés’ wool and silk bra top feels smart and sexy paired with the brand’s matching tuxedo trousers.

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Yet new season white is not just for head-to-toe impact. It is also brought to life with stark contrasts. Monochrome was a key look on the runway this season, and there is no better way to maximise white than with its antithesis. If in doubt, pair with bold black leather to turn your angel into a Hell’s angel.

Be inspired to wear white in the fashion shoot below: