Fashion / Society

All the Scandi-friendly design details that we loved at LFW

By Josefin Forsberg

As London Fashion Week comes to a close, we're rounding up the runway pieces that held undeniably Nordic appeal

This past week, London has been bubbling with burgeoning brands and heritage houses showing their autumn/winter 2023 collections. Show-goers and tastemakers flocked to the city to witness the output from lauded designers in the British capital.

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Amid Burberry's plaids and trenches, JW Anderson's archival reissues and Roksanda's discerning womenswear were details less expected: a high-end hot water bottle, a puffer wrap. Pieces with surprising Scandinavian appeal, spanning design and practicality.

Below, discover the seven Scandi-friendly details we plan to pluck straight from the London runways.

1

High-fashion hot water bottles at Burberry

Daniel Lee (formerly of Bottega Veneta fame) made his debut as Burberry's creative director during London Fashion Week. Setting out to celebrate the 'Britishness' of the brand, Lee (a UK native) delivered "a homegrown thread" reinforced by pleated tartan-inspired kilts over trousers, chunky Aran and argyle jumpers and British motifs including the English rose and ducks.

The pièce de résistance, however, was the plaid hot water bottle carried down the runway in multiple iterations and colour combinations. An accessory we, alongside the rest of the sartorial set, are planning bring home with us. It is the perfect accoutrement for an archipelago cabin or mountain hytte, after all.

2

JW Anderson's fuzzy top with a built in muff

While he isn't one for nostalgia, Jonathan Anderson dove deep into his archive this season. Taking one element from every single collection of his last 15 years helming JW Anderson, the founder and creative director reintroduced reissues of sorts – allowing his avid fans to get their hands on some of the designer's greatest hits.

Yet few pieces were as impactful as the pocketed bustiers. First introduced in 2013 as part of Anderson's autumn/winter menswear collection dubbed 'The Ruffle Short', it arguably sparked the conversation of gender fluidity which still smoulders on to this day. 10 years on, it is given a womenswear flair when fashioned out of fuzzy faux fur, making it the perfect party top for our colder climate.

3

Boundless base-layers at Nensi Dojaka

Nensi Dojaka has made a name for herself in creating impossibly small, lingerie-inspired pieces celebrating the female body. Her self-set task, it seems, is to appeal to the liberated woman who enjoys exposing some skin. This season, however, we saw a slightly more coverage on the runway from the oft-undressed Nensi Dojaka.

Stepping outside of her comfort zone of lace, silk, and sheer pleats, the young British designer took on new materials. And as such, the runway was filled with woollen coats, faux fur jackets, and caviar sequin dresses. Our favourite Scandi-friendly aspect, however, was the boundless line-up of base layers. So be it ultra sheer polo tops to sport under blazers for our next night out or the superbly soft long-sleeved bodies and leggings on offer, they're a no-brainer addition to our layering game this year.

4

Statement outerwear at Helen Anthony

While operating within the world of Savile Row, fiercely proud of its British heritage, Helen Anthony subverts the very notion of tailoring. The pieces remain perfectly constructed, but silhouettes are moulded and shaped to the extreme – sleeves sweeping and lapels exaggerated. It is a modern, youthful interpretation of London's treasured tailoring heritage.

It plots the perfect path to statement outerwear, and a statement coat is the ultimate Scandi staple. Amidst the fuzzy floor-skimming faux furs and wide-shouldered leather coats, we were caught by this surprisingly neutral two-toned wool coat. Featuring army green and khaki panels, pointed lapels and extra long sleeves, it will surely zhuzh up our outerwear options this autumn.

5

Huishan Zang's evening sweater

Alfred Hitchcock's 'Femme Fatale' lays the foundation for Huishan Zang's autumn/winter 2023 collection. The designer's interpretation of the Hitchcockian woman saw her wearing crepe cocktail dresses, crinkled silk midi slips overlaid with ruched black organza, outerwear adorned with signature ostrich, and denim pieces finished so precisely that they resembled structured wool on the runway.

Yet few pieces were as wearable or covetable as the brand's 'evening sweaters'. An innately Nordic notion, night-out knits are an essential part of our winter wear. And Huishan Zang's fuzzy roll-neck knits, featuring sparkling embellishments, fit the bill perfectly. With chameleonic effect, they easily transition from the office, styled with loose-fit denim and elegant slingback, to elevated evening wear when paired with silky slips and sky-high heels.

6

Roksanda's glove-clad get ups

Roksanda Ilincic dresses a certain well-dressed and well-read woman, a 'gentlewoman' if you will. Someone who convenes with friends over a glass of red wine, who visits galleries over the weekend. It is a woman with a very conscious wardrobe, who welcomes well-made pieces and artful detailing. Pieces which will thrive in her wardrobe for decades. Sound familiar? Arguably, there are similarities between the Scandinavian woman and Ilincic's intended client.

In the autumn/winter lineup, we welcomed the pairing of tonal blazers and scrunched up opera gloves. We've previously noted how remarkably wearable the long-length glove has become, and these looks offered additional styling inspiration for transitioning our suiting through the seasons – be it in Scandi beige, tickling turquoise, or eye-catching cerise.

7

Feben's puffer wrap

The entire tarot deck served as inspiration for the namesake label of Feben (who goes by her first name only) last season, and for autumn/winter 2023, the designer built on the concept by focusing on a single card: The Chariot, a card about overcoming conflicts and moving forward in a positive direction. The sequin-heavy collection presented shimmering slip dresses in gold, emerald, and turquoise alongside chainmail-like pieces made from metallic plastron.

Naturally, we were attracted to the padded scarves and cropped puffer boleros in the collection. Not only did they offer an updated take on winter-warming essentials, but they also featured hardware details made from Norwegian tinn-per trimmings.