Industry experts weigh in on the enduring allure of the former Céline creative director — and what to expect from her brand new label
Philophiles, rejoice. As 2022 edges ever closer, so too does the return of Phoebe Philo — and the launch of her much-heralded eponymous fashion label. After a decade at the head of Céline in which she remade the brand in her own style and inspired slavish devotion to her designs, Philo stepped away from the fashion world in 2018. For dedicated followers of Philo, it's felt like a long period of self exile, but earlier this year they were given light at the end of the tunnel when it was announced that the icon of minimal chic would soon be returning with her own brand which will be partially backed by LVMH.
Philo's knack for setting the aesthetic agenda was the envy of creatives around the world as the British designer took over Céline and quickly set about building her own cult success. There was a radical maturity to her looks, elevated by oversized cashmere sweaters, luxury Birkenstocks and relaxed tailored pants. Her revolutionary yet elegantly simple approach to fashion changed the sartorial world fundamentally, such as when she inaugurated the “ugly shoe” trend with her SS13 lines for Céline. Her iconic creations at the Parisian fashion house ranged from the SS11 scarf-print shirt that prompted praise from Kanye West in the midst of his performance at Coachella, the AW12 pillowy bag, and the SS14 geometric mule.
The AW12 pillowy bag. Photo: Getty
The SS14 geometric mule. Photo: Getty
She may not have turned out any new designs in the last few years, but it's clear the Philo effect is still being felt.
“I’m still on the lookout for the Yves Klein blue dress,” admits Jenny Walton, the Milan-based fashion illustrator and a self-confessed vintage Céline lover, referring to a creation inspired by the late French artist in one of Philo's last collections for Céline.
Mirjam Flatau, the Paris-based creative director who recently launched a bag collaboration with Frenzlauer, is another fan, highlighting “the classy oversized cashmere sweater, the timeless bags like the box or trifold, and the delicate jewellery." Christie Tyler, forever known as NYC Bambi, doesn’t even hesitate when asked for her favourite: “the glove boot is a hero piece."
With her previous designs still very much sought after, the prospect of entire new collections from Philo has understandably caused a lot of excitement. But what can we expect from her new label?
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The Yves Klein blue dress. Photo: Getty
The glove boot. Photo: Céline
ILLUM shoes and accessories buyer Nikki Hillan believes that Philo will revive the, “full wardrobe aesthetic, moulding our concept of 'modern look' for the 21st century." Anissa Draa-Fjer, luxury and designer womenswear buyer at Printemps, predicts that Philo will continue where she left off at Céline. “An effortless, sharp and timeless femininity will be the pillars that I expect her to continue to create upon,” she says. “The subtle colour palette is a must, but we know how much she likes to surprise us with the right dose of statement prints and utilitarian vibes.”
After a prolonged period of lockdown and more drama than many of us would've liked, the world seems ready for the kind of stylish simplicity that Philo has made her calling card. The “classic-with-a-twist wardrobe staple” as German influencer Mirjam Flatau puts it. Swedish style blogger Lisa Olsson agrees, saying that she expects, “silhouettes that blur the line between seasons and a day and night time look.”
In keeping things simple, there's also hope for Philo's new collections to emphasise sustainability. Hilan suggests that Philo will, "encourage us to reuse our current wardrobe while investing in new pieces,” while Draa-Fier agrees that, "by purchasing her future creations, I am pretty sure she will implicitly guide us in generally buying less but better.”
Phoebe Philo walks the runway during the Céline AW12 show during Paris Fashion Week. Photo: Getty
There's undoubtedly a huge amount of pressure as 2022 nears. But that's par for the course when a designer like Philo has “created an incredible space for women to feel artistic, chic, and appreciated," as Walton puts it. The hype is set to reach fever pitch in the coming months, but most observers are confident Philo can match expectations — in part, because her fashion transcends standard trends. As Draa-Fjer puts it, “Philo has created an attitude. And that’s even stronger because it will be forever intangible.”