Accessories / Society

The Paris report: All of the must-see shoes and bags from AW22

By Sandra Hagelstam

On the heel of Paris Fashion Week, our very own Sandra Hagelstam rounds up the best autumn/winter 2022 accessories to keep an eye on for next season

The accessory showcase of Paris fashion Week provided us with a stimulating experience. From socks to surrealism, this season went way beyond the point of being aesthetically pleasing. Celebrating craftsmanship, inclusivity and the rich history of the French fashion houses, the purses and pumps purveyed were almost poetic: used to provoke feelings and ask questions. From deconstructed It-bags to shoes as you’ve never seen them before, these were the most eye-catching and talked about accessories from Paris.

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Hermés ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2022.

Loewe ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2022.

Classics, but not as we know them, were presented on numerous runways. Hermès debuted a new take on the iconic Kelly bag in a deconstructed yet sophisticated manner. Balenciaga (whose poignant show was the most memorable of the month) took the idea of configuration a step further, reworking their iconic Cagole and Rodeo boots into bags. At Loewe, the art-influenced collection was a mix of humour and wearable surrealism, with balloon-shaped heels and foil-like metallic wrappers draped over stacked sandals. "Fashion that entices a reaction" was the goal for Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, who continues to challenge norms of accessory foundations in exciting, humorist ways.

Chanel autumn/winter 2022.

Chanel autumn/winter 2022.

Hermés ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2022.

Paris had a more laid-back and practical take on boots than Milan. At Chanel, the iconic house-tweed took centre stage and presented on everything from bags to show invitations. Models wore logo stamped gumboots and thigh-high waders over woollen socks as an ode to the Scottish countryside (a favourite of Coco Chanel). Hermès also opted for thick socks and took their iconic equestrian look in a more refined direction, presenting a new type of lighter boot with a ballerina influence. This is an evident change to the heavy utility boot trend that has dominated for numerous seasons.

Roger Vivier autumn/winter 2022.

Roger Vivier autumn/winter 2022.

Christian Louboutin autumn/winter 2022.

In the celebration of craftsmanship, heritage brands known for their accessories did not shy away from highlighting the work of their artisans. After a long stretch of minimalism in fashion, embroidery and adornment make a strong comeback. Roger Vivier put on an impressive show as always, in the form of 'Hotel Vivier' that celebrated the talented accessory makers and artists that have been part of the house's DNA since the beginning. Artistic Director Gherardo Felloni drew inspiration from Roger Vivier's archive pieces in a comprehensive collection that included feather-covered pumps, a crystal harness, and thigh-high sandals - introducing a new category of shoe accessories. Christian Louboutin also introduced a range of fun shoe accessories from eye and lips shoe clips to patent socks.

Christian Dior ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2022.

Louis Vuitton ready-to-wear autumn/winter 2022.

Christian Louboutin autumn/winter 2022.

The work of Roger Vivier was also present in the shoes of Christian Dior’s runway collection, as Maria Grazia Chiuri channelled the decade-long collaboration between the two French houses in the 1950s. Roger Vivier’s kitten Louis heels for Dior were reworked into a technical pump with ankle straps and heavy heading, paired with sporty socks. Floral adornment was also present on Dior’s iconic bags like the Caro and similarly on the monogram totes of Louis Vuitton that played on the juxtaposition of old and new. Christian Louboutin dedicated a large part of his AW22 collection to Greece and the fictional character of Miss Tependris by Konstantin Kakanias. The ‘Greekaba’ capsule included embroidered boots, totes and playful sandals that paid homage to Athens and the Cyclades Islands of Greece.

Valentino autumn/winter 2022.

Christian Louboutin autumn/winter 2022.

Christian Louboutin autumn/winter 2022.

Despite the array of sharp heels and artisanal footwear, Paris too embraced the trending platform heel. Valentino (who made the most sought after platforms of the current season) continued with the same silhouette that was shown in head to toe, monotone fuchsia and black looks. Platforms, in laser-cut suede, studded clogs and playful prints were also highlights of Christian Louboutin’s wide selection of exciting footwear of AW22.