As royal jewels go, few sets have become more recognisable in the Nordic countries than Queen Mary of Denmark’s rubies. Here, Danish jewellery expert Nina Hald speaks on the set that HRM Queen Mary of Denmark chose to wear to the proclamation – divulging the history behind these sparkling red gems
Royal jewellery chests have always been cause for curiosity across the world, weighed down by massive gemstones and precious metals few people are privy to see. Some of these pieces have even become emblematic of certain royals: The Queen Mary Fringe Tiara that both Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Anne wore to their respective weddings, Princess Diana’s sapphire engagement ring, and Queen Silvia of Sweden’s Braganza Parure, to name a few.
One such set that has become prolific for a particular royal is the ruby parure for the new Queen Mary of Denmark – an ornate set of tiara, necklace, earrings, brooches and hair clips which she has worn on high rotation for many years. The set even became the topic for Danish jewellery expert Nina Hald’s book Royal Rubies (2018), in which Hald comprehensively examines the pieces. As such, it came as little surprise to those in the know that these scarlet stones adorned Queen Mary on the proclamation day, paired with a snow-white dress by Danish designer Søren Le Schmidt to echo the country’s colours. “Queen Ingrid of Denmark [King Frederik X’s grandmother who bestowed the set onto Queen Mary] wore the royal ruby set as Crown Princess, as Queen and as Dowager Queen; Queen Mary appears to be following in her footsteps,” notes Hald.
Queen Mary of Denmark wearing the royal ruby set during the proclamation. Photo: Getty
As for specifics, Queen Mary opted to wear the (now) two hairpins, the brooch without its pendant, the earrings in the second-largest version, the ruby ring, as well as the portrait of Queen Margrethe. King Frederik X also stepped up to the task, appearing fashion forward with his Shamballa bracelet and an Omega Seamaster. No doubt a nod to “His Majesty’s affinity with the sea and navy,” according to Hald.
Speaking to the author ahead of the proclamation of King Frederik X and Queen Mary of Denmark, Hald noted that “it will be my guess that the jewellery chosen will be for personal, heritage reasons. Something showcasing that the Danish monarchy is the longest European still “ruling” – as a constitutional monarchy today, that is.” In Royal Rubies, Hald writes: “As royal jewels, the ruby set is both important and valuable. The pieces function on several levels: the individual, the social, the cultural and the national-historical.”
As royal jewels, the ruby set is both important and valuable. The pieces function on several levels: the individual, the social, the cultural and the national-historical.
Nina Hald
The iconic ruby set was first worn at Napoleon’s coronation as emperor in 1804 by Désirée, who later became queen of Sweden. The set came to Denmark in 1869, when her great-granddaughter Princess Lovisa married the Danish Crown Prince Frederik (VIII). . Photo: Jens Peter Engedal
As Queen, Lovisa gave it to her daughter-in-law Alexandrine, and in 1935, Crown Princess Ingrid received it as a wedding gift. The set was Queen Ingrid’s favourite for decades, and in her will she left it to Crown Prince Frederik, so that his future wife could wear a jewellery set worthy of a crown princess. Photo: Jens Peter Engedal
According to Hald, wearing pieces from the royal ruby set on the day of the proclamation tells us of Queen Mary’s intention to keep the lineage alive. “Her Majesty Queen Mary is thus referencing the “French connection” [the royal ruby set originated in France at the very beginning of the 19th century], her mother-in-law’s mother, Queen Ingrid, and of course the symbolic colour value of red and white, also reflected in the attire of Queen Mary,” says Hald.
But Queen Mary’s jewellery wasn’t the only sparkle at the proclamation. “Queen Margrethe II of Denmark wore a pair of ruby and diamond earrings, a gift from her late husband,” says Hald, “and a horseshoe brooch, a gift from her father.” Queen Margrethe II wore the brooch at her own ascension, and its inclusion in her abdication ensemble no doubt holds the personal meaning Hald prophesied. “It was a way for the Queen to have her father and husband with her, during her proclamation ‘God save the King’.”
Photo: Getty
Finally, Hald reflects on how the new Queen will take to her role through her chosen jewellery. She theorises that, during the official evening engagement, Queen Mary will become “a lot more ostentatious” than HRH was a Crown Princess; since then, Queen Mary will have much more to choose from and wear. “I doubt the newly-minted King’s jewellery selection will change significantly. But this is the way it has always been in Denmark when a Crown Princess becomes Queen.”