The future of fine jewellery? It can be found in Prada’s debut collection

Founded in 1913, Prada is – like most luxury houses – shrouded in heritage. But while the brand revels in its vast archive and cemented emblems, it maintains a fine balance between nurturing the past and pushing into the future. Just consider the Re-Edition series, bringing back nylon accessory icons from the ‘90s in a more sustainable way.

The latest addition to Prada’s line-up of innovative luxury comes as the brand debuts its fine jewellery collection. Timothy Iwata, at the helm as jewellery director, explains how Prada believes that, while heritage is anchored in the past, it is living and can be forward-looking. “Instead of looking back, Prada seeks to focus on what is happening in our society now to create relevant and meaningful contemporary fine jewellery pieces that crystallise the spirit of current times,” he says.

When designing Prada’s debut collection, Iwata began by exploring classic motifs, lending them new expressions meant to stand the test of time. “By applying the same design philosophy from fashion, our creative process starts from reimagining classicism,” Iwata explains, pin-pointing how some of the most archetypal forms of fine jewellery are represented in the collection: from the heart to snakes and chains – all reinterpreted through Prada’s contemporary lens. “For example, in Greek mythology, the snake is a creative life force, a symbol of transformation,” explains Iwata, noting its importance in history: “In the Victorian era, gold snake jewels were very à la mode.” The Prada snake bracelet celebrates the snake’s distinguished past while echoing modernity with its angular lines – celebrating “human creativity as a transformative life force,” according to Iwata.

The Prada Heart is another excellent example of how Iwata has extended Prada’s design philosophy to fine jewellery. “Jewellery has historically been positioned in the centre of the industry of love,” he says. “The anachronistic nature of binary storytelling around love is becoming irrelevant to the younger generations. We wanted to reimagine the symbol of love in a more real and meaningful way.” The romantic and almost “pop art influenced top part of the heart,” as Iwata describes it, is put in contrast with the clean silhouettes of Prada’s iconic triangle at the bottom.

Prada’s own archetype, the triangle, is traced in every piece. First featured in trunks designed by Mario Prada, the geometric shape now appears as a clasp closure on a chain, hoop-like earrings, pendants, and links on a chunky chain. “Proportions are reconsidered, pendants are blown up, chain links are exaggerated to create impact,” says Iwata. “The triangle represents the brand - a conceptual, wordless logo, universal in its resonance.”

The aim of Prada’s new fine jewellery collection is timelessness, being passed down through generations. “Remaining relevant through time is part of Prada’s design ethos,” says Iwata. “So when launching fine jewellery, we focused on staying true to our DNA to push boundaries instead of following a conventional approach.”

While celebrating timelessness, creating pieces that will last, Prada is also repositioning the “single most important precious metal in the history of fine jewellery,” according to Iwata. “Gold is the protagonist of our effort to raise awareness and drive change to introduce more sustainable practices across the entire supply chain of the fine jewellery industry,”’ he says.

The amount of gold on planet earth is finite, and Prada aims to spearhead a sustainable shift, only using 100 per cent recycled gold to reduce mining operations which take a toll not only on the environment but also on human rights. Iwata explains how it is essential to highlight that Prada is only using certified recycled gold, saying: “It is not just about using 100 per cent recycled gold,'' he says. In fact, all of the recycled gold used in the collection is drawn from eligible recycled material sources in compliance with Chain of Custody standards set by the Responsible Jewelry Council – the highest industry standards concerning human rights, labour safety, environmental protection and business ethics. It is an integral pillar of Prada’s new fine jewellery line, and every subsequent collection will continue to use recycled precious metals.

“The 100% certified recycled gold usage demonstrates our conviction that we can create beautiful and relevant contemporary fine jewellery at scale without compromising our core value in sustainability,” Iwata concludes. Having said that, he acknowledges that “as we are starting afresh, we do not have any legacy processes to fix as some of the incumbent brands do.”

This push towards a more circular, transparent chain aligns well with the Prada Group. The company believes that “transparency is the foundation of sustainability,” according to Iwata. “There is a strong and long-term commitment to sustainability, not only environmental but also social at our Group level.” But instead of following the “more conventional communication-centric approach” to the brand’s sustainability program, as Iwata puts it, Prada has chosen the “more challenging path to collaborate with key actors in the supply chain of precious metals to drive radical transparency and real improvement to sustainability practices in the fine jewellery industry.”