Once a means of using up left-over fabric scraps, today patchwork is a favourite of the fashion world. Here, we explore the origins of the perennial trend and how to wear it now
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Returning to our roots, fashion took a turn for the folksy this season. Odes to craftmanship were seen on the runways from New York to Copenhagen. Among the many artful techniques, patchwork was a clear favourite for the fashion set. As shown in our December - January issue the patchwork trend is certainly one to embrace now.
Patchwork was initially a technique of economy. The use of patches harbours a rich fashion history, from the historical art of Japanese 'Boro' – where poor farmers and fishermen in northern Japan would lovingly mend and patch worn cloth out of necessity – to modern interpretations such as Swedish designers Rave Review reusing fabric. The technique has become part of a distinct fashion fabric.
Leather coat, €9,500. Chloé. Photo: Noel Quintela
In the 1960s, this method of mending meant to use up left-over fabric scraps was adopted by designers to detail garments. This period in sartorial history saw the rise of traditional handicrafts as an alternative to mainstream fashions, heavily inspired by the Hippie movement.
As a technique, patchwork was inexpensive, easy to do yourself and a great way of adding individuality to an outfit, whether adding patches to a pair of jeans or creating something more elaborate.
Although it never completely disappeared, patchwork resurfaced as a major fashion trend in the early 1990s. Designers set out to create a handmade, homespun feel as street-style set out to revive the aforementioned hippie-style. By the decade's end, handmade elements were seen on most high-fashion runways, from Gucci to Comme des Garçons.
Coach autumn/winter 2021.
Holzweiler autumn/winter 2021.
Dolce & Gabbana autumn/winter 2021.
Today the technique remains a perennial fashion favourite. Seen on the autumn/winter runways of Dolce & Gabbana, Holzweiler and Coach in the form of stitched together coats, the design expressions were distinctly different. At Dolce & Gabbana, the outerwear took on youthful energy in a pea coat silhouette. In contrast, Coach's tone-in-tone coat was a more classical take on the trend. In the Nordics, Norwegian Holzweiler played with prints and mismatched patterns in their stitched together jacket.
Below, purvey the very best patchwork pieces to purchase now.
