Fashion / Society

Soulland unveils its new genderless approach to fashion

By Clare McInerney

Soulland spring/summer 2023 at Pitti Uomo 102. Photo: Darrel Hunter

The first of two spring / summer 2023 presentations for Soulland merges the lines between menswear and womenswear

“I think it’s time to break down some boundaries. This is a start of something new for us.”

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Silas Oda Adler, Creative Director of Soulland, is talking about the new direction that he is forging for the contemporary Copenhagen-based label.

Founded by Adler in 2022, Soulland has garnered a cult following for its meticulous Scandinavian craftsmanship and reinterpretation of classic menswear. Now, after the recent introduction of a womenswear, the trailblazing Adler is now merging the categories into a genderless offering.

“For this season, we have broken down the lines between our menswear and womenswear and tried to build on something new. Soulland is an energy, and this should be the focus. I have been working on finding a balance between menswear and womenswear for years. I love designing different silhouettes, but I don’t think it’s my job to decide or define who wears what and why," Adler says.

Soulland spring / summer 2023 at Pitti Uomo 102. Photo: Darrel Hunter

Unveiled as a ‘special project’ at the 102nd edition of Pitti Uomo in Florence, Adler showcased the genderfree collection at the atmospheric multi-level rooftop auditorium of the Teatro Del Maggio. The runway show was the first of two presentations that Soulland will show this season.

To support its gender-blind approach, the spring / summer 2023 line-up takes an inclusive approach to sizing. It contains a variety of fits – tight, straight, loose, oversize – effectively catering to different body types and preferences.

Photo: Darrel Hunter. Photo: Darrel Hunter

Photo: Darrel Hunter.

Photo: Darrel Hunter.

Amongst the pinks, paisleys and eye-catching metallics, a dark collage of artwork dives into the Soulland's world of storytelling, with a symbolic ‘Spring Devil’ creature who is 'calm, beautiful and dangerously charming', embodying an 'appetite for excitement' according to the collection notes.

“The more I create stories and build the collections around these stories, the more personal the collection becomes. The Spring Devil is a creature, I think a lot of us can relate to. It’s not out to harm us, necessarily, but it feeds on getting us to do things that are on the edge. We all know that feeling, most of us have a Spring Devil around us, but also inside us,” comments Adler.

I love designing different silhouettes, but I don’t think it’s my job to decide or define who wears what and why.

Silas Oda Adler, Creative Director at Soulland

Photo: Adam Katz.

The materials throughout Soulland's spring / summer 2021 are a selection from the brand's 'family of fabrics': 15 textiles that are responsible, versatile, and high quality. These fabrics have become part of Soulland’s DNA and the starting point for every collection, alongside the use of deadstock materials.

The second presentation of Soulland’s spring / summer 2023 collection will be shown at Copenhagen Fashion Week in August.