Skirting the skirt issue no longer: How celebrities and influencers are breaking the gender-fluid fashion bubble

Skirts for men: are we at the peak of a trend or on the edge of a fashion revolution? Let’s face it, men swapping trousers for a skirt in the mainstream still carries some stigma, just as women wearing trousers back in the day. What we are continuing to witness, fashion show after fashion show, is just that same sense of liberation, though this sea change is taking place in men's wardrobe.

Skirts and dresses used to be worn by all genders and in some cultures they still are. In contemporary western culture, skirts have largely become a symbol of femininity, which has (generally speaking) been accepted as being worn by just one gender: females. Currently, we are breaking one society rule after another, and making new rules where everyone can freely express themselves and wear garments they love regardless of gender.

Gender fluidity has been more present than ever on the runways. After discovering the SS23 Menswear collections in Paris, I wrote about gender-fluid fashion trends spotted on the runway, and the skirt was one. We saw brands from Egonlab and Kenzo, to Dries Van Noten sending male models down the runway in skirts; both layered with trousers, or on their own. While this was not the first time we saw skirts on men at shows (Jean Paul Gautier, COMME des GARÇONS, Thom Browne and Rick Owens have included skirts in their menswear collections for years), we are now witnessing the inclusion of male skirts across more brands and collections.

At the recent womenswear spring 2023 fashion weeks in New York and London, I was happy to see that the trend was not only a one-season shooting star but something that is here to stay for the long-term. I was also happy to see that the merging of womenswear and menswear, and all kinds of gender expressions, along with greater inclusivity and diverse castings – including better representation of non-binary and trans models – on the runway.

One of the first shows I attended was NYC label Collina Strada which was held outside surrounded by nature. The collection, made of deadstock materials, was colourful, playful, and inclusive. My favourite look was a baby blue lace top styled with a ruffled tartan printed skirt, flower print trousers and a shirt with sequins.

Another highlight was Peter Do, not only because I walked the show but also because the bar is consistently high. This season I was thrilled to witness the anticipated menswear debut and it did not disappoint. It was an adaption of what the brand creates for women but in different sizing to fit different body types. Skirts layered with suit pants has become a signature for Do, and we also saw a version of the pairing for men.

Australia’s Dion Lee has been embracing a more gender-neutral approach in fashion with their signature tight, sexy garments. Not too long ago we saw Dion Lee's gender-less corsets going viral on TikTok, and in the newest collection we saw cut-out tops, midi skirts and tiny tank tops for all genders.
Meanwhile, Brooklyn-based brand Tanner Fletcher is another brand breaking gender boundaries (including skirts for all) with their prom-style presentation.

After New York, the fashion week crowd sashayed to London where British contemporary menswear brand Daniel w. Fletcher opened London Fashion Week with a bang: a monochromatic collection including sharp tailoring, tartan prints, leather and pleated skirts. London-based brand Chopova Lowena is known for kilts. The brand's debut show had a bit of punk and a lot of print. Each look had a lot going on, but somehow Chopova Lowena made it all work perfectly together. And yes, we saw new versions of the kilt.

Simone Rocha is one of my London favourites and I was so excited to hear that we are going to see some menswear this season. In her previous runway show, Rocha gave a hint of what was coming, but for spring 2023, we saw over 15 menswear looks that blew up on social media just seconds after the show. The 'menswear' looked similar to the drama and beauty which Rocha creates for women. One of the best looks was an oversized blazer with big puffy sleeves styled with a tulle skirt and trousers.

We also saw inspiring menswear looks from Central Saint Martins graduate Molly Goddard. We saw tulle and ruffles in pink, neon green and orange, styled with cowboy boots and her signature cosy knits. The best skirt moment was a long pinstripe styled with a tee with ruffle details. Stefan Cooke has been embracing gender fluidity in their collections for many seasons and this time we got long maxi denim skirts, in addition to ballet-inspired tulle skirts.

The runway is not the only place we see skirt-clad men and everyone from fashion week attendees to social media influencers, such as Louis Rubi and Declan Chan, are embracing the trend. Germany-based social media phenomenon Mark Bryan demonstrates that garments have very little to do with gender and sexuality to his over half a million Instagram followers. Another style icon, Swedish street star Fredrik Robertsson is often spotted sporting a fabulous skirt in front rows and galas.

Gender fluidity has also trickled into LA too, with more more male Hollywood stars performing and attending events in skirts. Think Lil Nas X’s pink metallic midi skirt at the Audacy Beach Festival in Florida, or Oscar Isaac’s grey pleated skirt suit by Thom Browne worn for the screening of Moon Knight, and Brad Pitt – who isn’t a stranger to skirts – donned a brown linen number to the Berlin screening of his new film Bullet Train in July.

When we do talk about men in skirts as a trend, respect and credit should be given to the trans, gender nonconforming, queer, and non-binary communities who have inspired and paved the way for such fashion in the first place. It's a win to see a cis straight man wearing a skirt on a red carpet because it’s a sign that we’re slowly, but surely, accepting that clothes have no gender.

Recently I wore a pleated grey skirt with a tuxedo suit in New York and I felt liberated and fabulous whilst doing so. Sure, not every city is as open-minded as NYC, but each step is a move towards the ultimate goal: safely and freely wearing whatever you want, and whatever feels you.