For those who never considered what kaolin clay in their skincare does, it's your best ally if you have acne-prone skin or are a city dweller. Here's why...
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It seems a new sheetmask launches every week but age-old, mineral-rich clay formulas have stood the test of time – and with good reason. If you're looking to get dull and congested skin back on track, a kaolin clay mask applied in a thick blanket over the face will suck up any grease, dirt and pollution particles with Dyson-like precision. "It's the best way to utilise the purifying, exfoliating and oil-absorbing properties of the mineral,” adds Dr Ana Mansouri, cosmetic doctor and skincare expert.
What is kaolin clay and how does it benefit the skin?
Kaolin clay is rich in the mineral kaolinite, which gives it a white hue, but the earthy powder can also come in green and pink varieties depending on mineral deposits in the area. It's collected for use in the porcelain industry but in skincare, it plays a starring role in face masks, cleansers and gentle scrubs. “Kaolin clay has the ability to penetrate pores when applied wet and, unlike many other clays, is selectively able to absorb excess sebum and impurities as it dries without causing dehydration or stripping the skin of its natural oils,” Dr Mansouri says.
Green kaolin clay is reported to be particularly beneficial for acne-prone skin. This is due to its mild anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, says Dr Mansouri, adding that “green kaolin clay is also able to absorb more sebum and impurities compared to pink or white kaolin clay, thereby preventing clogged pores.”
Kaolin clay has the ability to penetrate pores when applied wet and is selectively able to absorb excess sebum and impurities
Dr Ana Mansouri, cosmetic doctor
How to use kaolin clay in your skincare routine
There are no regulations governing where kaolin clay is sourced so choose a pre-mixed mask by a reputable skincare brand. Many have also supercharged their formulas with other actives including skin-brightening vitamin C (Tromborg Mud Mask Mineral-Rich), algae harvested off the coast of Sweden to hydrate (L:A Bruket 250 Body Clay Mask) and niacinamide to safeguard against disrupting the skin's moisture barrier (Youth To The People's Superclay Purify + Clear Power Mask)
If skin is acne prone you may want to steam your face first before applying a kaolin clay mask. "Research suggests higher temperatures will open the pilosebaceous units [made up of hair follicles and sebaceous glands], increasing the clay’s absorption of excess oil,” Dr Mansouri explains. Another bonus: the mild exfoliating action gently smooths an uneven skin texture for a light-reflecting glow.
Any side effects?
Given kaolin clay is naturally drawn to oil rather than water, it can safely been used by dry and sensitive skin types. Dr Mansouri still recommends doing a patch test by applying a little of the clay mask on your inner forearm before using it on your face and, if irritation occurs, discontinue use. She also warns against leaving a kaolin clay mask on so long that it dries and cracks on the skin. “Always follow the manufacturers’ guidelines to avoid excessively drying or irritating the skin,” she adds.
