It’s perhaps not as sexy as hyaluronic acid – or as well known. But ectoin is one of the most effective ingredients to combat dehydrated skin.
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Ectoin needs hyaluronic acid’s publicist. Beloved for its ability to deeply hydrate and plump out the skin’s surface in seconds, hyaluronic acid has acquired the type of loyal following usually bestowed on rock stars. But what if we told you that despite being lesser known, ectoin actually delivers superior benefits to the skin?
What is ectoin?
“Ectoin is a powerful molecule, known as an extremolyte,” explains Anne Schrötter, from ingredient supplier Bitop. “This is essentially a small molecule that protects micro-organisms from dehydration and environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and extreme temperature changes.”
In the natural world, ectoin can be found in some of the most hostile environments in the world, such as salt lakes and deserts. In fact, it was first discovered in Africa’s Wadi El Naturn desert in 1985, when a water sample revealed that tiny micro-organisms produced ectoin as a self-defence molecule to protect against dehydration from high salt concentrations. “Now nature’s genius survival strategy has made its way into skincare,” adds Schrötter.
The benefits of ectoin in skincare
It’s fair to say that when it comes to much-hyped skincare ingredients, ectoin definitely flies under the radar. A bit like hyaluronic acid’s cooler, more nonchalant cousin, ectoin also binds water to the skin, effectively ‘filling’ in wrinkles and creating a cushiony soft texture. However, that’s where the similarities end.
Unlike hyaluronic acid, ectoin also doubles up as an ‘osmolyte’, meaning it helps to maintain the correct water balance in your skin. “Unlike other hydrators, ectoin not only instantly hydrates but it leads to a steady increase of water in the skin, which results in long-term hydration,” explains Schrötter. In other words, ectoin isn’t simply about instant gratification but an ingredient worth investing in when taking the longview of your skin’s health.
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Likewise, ectoin also minimises the effects of blue light and pollution on skin cells, resulting in less inflammation and oxidative stress. “In turn, this protects all elements in the skin – cells, enzymes and proteins – from premature ageing,” says Schrötter.
Given ectoin is so effective at fostering hydrated, happy skin, it’s no wonder that a growing number of brands are harnessing its powers. “Together with our chemical engineer, we reviewed hundreds of ingredients and all the underlying data and clinical studies looking for something that could provide next-level skin hydration,” explains Nikki Amini, co-founder of Aivira Skincare, the first Swedish brand to formulate with ectoin. “Alongside being an extremely powerful hydrating agent, ectoin also repairs, increases cell activity, strengthens the barrier and has a positive impact on the skin microbiome, which was when we realised that we has found something unique.” As for how to apply ectoin, Amini recommends daily use. “Studies have shown that consecutive use for 14 days keeps skin hydrated for an additional seven days afterwards.” Pretty clever, no?
Related: Skincare Science: Why a daily dose of vitamin D belongs in your beauty arsenal
Below, the best ectoin skincare to help you achieve your most radiant and hydrated skin this winter and beyond:
