Zinc is known as an immune booster when taken orally. But does this mineral deserve a place in your skincare routine, too?
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In the skincare world, vitamin C is undoubtedly the favourite child. But in our rush to get vitamin C's brightening, collagen-boosting effects are we overlooking the benefits of another powerhouse ingredient? Georgie Cleeve, founder of nutritional skincare brand Oskia, certainly thinks so and has made the mineral zinc a core tenet of her products including the best-selling Get Up & Glow Energising Serum.
“Taken orally, zinc is key to the body’s everyday functioning as it ensures the genes within each cell transmit and interpret instructions from each other,” she explains. “Crucially, zinc also supports your immune function and insulin levels. From a skincare perspective, it’s a key mineral required by the body for the production of collagen and elastin. Applied topically, it also acts as an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and healing agent, as well as a brilliant ingredient to treat acne due to its ability to regulate sebum production.”
What role does zinc play in skincare?
Zinc is best known as the active ingredient in mineral sunscreens. Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the skin’s surface as a physical barrier to the sun. “Zinc oxide reflects light off the surface of the skin, protecting it from UV rays,” says Dana Nell, skin therapist at Björk and Berries.
If all this conjures up images of a chalky, ashy cast on the skin, think again. The latest developments in nanotechnology mean this is no longer the case. Rather than bulky particles of zinc, brands such as Ren, Lumene and Karmameju now offer refined formulas that are infinitely more wearable and suitable for black skin. Cleeve also stresses that, as a powerful antioxidant, zinc is able to curb the effects of free radicals and oxidative stress caused by UV rays. “Free radicals interact with other molecules within cells, which can cause damage to proteins, membranes and genes,” she says. “Zinc, as a Metallothioneine, has the ability to capture and reduce them.”
Research also shows that low levels of zinc can be partially responsible for acne breakouts so it makes sense to apply zinc topically to the skin. “The reason they are thought to be related is zinc’s ability to limit oil secretion in pores,” adds Cleeve.
Then there’s the anti-ageing benefits: zinc is known to encourage the production of elastin and collagen fibres. “Both help support the underlying structure of the skin to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and even scars,” explains Cleeve.
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How to use zinc in serums and creams
The most notable downside to zinc is its size. So for the purposes of skincare, zinc relies on clever delivery systems to enable it to penetrate the skin. “One major breakthrough in cosmetic science has been the ability to ‘chelate’ zinc to other amino acids, which are smaller and more easily absorbed,” explains Cleeve. “At Oskia, we graft zinc onto the amino acid glycine, as this acts as a highly effective carrier into the skin.”
For breakouts or sensitivity, zinc is best used in tandem with other actives. For acne, lean on The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc, which, as the name suggests, uses zinc and vitamin B3 to balance sebum activity. Likewise, Woods Copenhagen Pore Minimizing Serum combines zinc and salicylic acid to unclog pores and take down redness. While those with patches of dry, itchy skin blooming across their face and body will benefit from slathering on Bjork & Berries Rescue Cream, with its proprietary blend of anti-inflammatory oat extracts, probiotics and zinc.
