With its ability to soften fine lines, improve the look of enlarged pores and create a more robust skin barrier, niacinamide is a workhorse skincare ingredient in the truest sense of the word
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Despite a stream of so-called ‘miracle’ skincare ingredients, one became our saving grace during the pandemic: niacinamide. Not for nothing, as it’s brilliant for soothing skin flare-ups, minimising pores and locking in moisture for a stronger skin barrier.
Spurred on by the popularity of this ingredient, aesthetic doctor Barbara Sturm has just launched The Better B Niacinamide Serum and skincare buffs are waxing lyrical about its transformational effects. “I develop my skincare products according to the needs of my patients and niacinamide is an ingredient I’m frequently asked about,” says Sturm. She notes that, “when used correctly in an optimal formulation, it has overarching benefits for skin health and has powerful anti-inflammatory properties that can improve skin texture, moisture and functionality.”
What is niacinamide and how does it benefit the skin?
Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3. Given niacinamide isn’t stored in the body, it’s crucial to replenish reserves through diet – it’s found in fish, milk, eggs, green vegetables and cereals – and to also use skincare spiked with the ingredient if your complexion is constantly suffering.
Sturm calls topical vitamin B3 “a true multitasking ingredient” on account of its many benefits and powerful anti-inflammatory properties. “It not only helps to control excess oil on the skin and visibly reduce the look of enlarged pores, but it also helps to smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improves uneven skin tone, restores radiance, strengthens the natural skin barrier and renews the skin’s surface, reducing the effects of environmental damage,” explains Sturm. “In addition, vitamin B3 also prevents moisture loss as it helps to support the natural production of skin-strengthening ceramides.”
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What is the best way to deliver niacinamide into the skin?
Generally-speaking, niacinamide works for all skin types, even the most sensitive, and is best delivered into the skin as a serum or cream. But there is a catch: “Too high a concentration of topical vitamin B3 with significant amounts of residual Nicotinic Acid can have a negative effect and lead to irritation, sensitivity and redness,” warns Sturm.
She recommends five per cent as the sweet spot for niacinamide, a concentration that Woods Copenhagen also deploys for on-the-go moisturisation and protection with its Niacinamide Lifting Mist. Likewise, Glossier Super Pure Serum uses five per cent niacinamide alongside zinc PCA to reduce the look of congested pores without the drying effects that accompany your usual acne treatments.
What other actives can niacinamide be used with for even better results?
The beauty of niacinamide is that it actually enhances the performance of other skincare actives. Sturm recommends pairing it with vitamin C – “layering the two serums supercharges their brightening and skin perfecting effects,” she says. For treating hyperpigmentation and dehydration, niacinamide also plays nicely with the amino acid ectoin. Similarly, Bjork & Berries Vitamin Moisturiser pairs niacinamide with hyaluronic acid for a massive moisturising hit, while Sunday Riley’s 5 Stars Retinol + Niacinamide Eye Serum turbo-charges the collagen-producing benefits of encapsulated retinol with niacinamide, while also offsetting any irritation or dryness around the delicate eye area.
