If your nail beds are in need of some TLC, follow these expert tips
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Fun fact: the nail on your middle and fourth finger grows faster than those on the rest of your hand. Also true: finger nails grow about a tenth of a millimetre a day, according to the Boston University School of Medicine. Vitamin D seems to have an effect, too, which is why you’ll find your nails grow faster in summer. So if you’ve been papering over the cracks during winter with layer upon layer of polish, now is the time to address the problem that lies beneath and maximise on your nails' growth potential.
Remove polish and gels correctly
Once the polish around the cuticle starts to lift, it takes every ounce of self-control not to pick it off. But do resist, as improper removal of polish and gels is one of the main causes of damage to the nail bed underneath.
Michelle Humphrey, Dua Lipa’s nail artist, recommends taking your time – 15 minutes to gently life away polish and a full 30 to 45 minutes acetone soak per hand to remove gels. Once nails are naked, Humphrey recommends you gently file, buff the surface into a smooth shell and then drench them in a layer of hydrating cuticle oil.
The best nail polish removers
Religiously apply cuticle oil and hand cream
Cuticle oil and hand cream are the equivalent of serum and moisturiser for your digits.
A few minutes spent massaging this duo into your nails is all you need to undo the damage incurred in colder temperatures, "when the skin, cuticles and nail plate get dry and brittle,” says nail artist Frida Selkirk. “Applying a cuticle oil daily softens the cuticle, keeping it elastic, and prevents the nail plate from peeling.”
A good trick, she says, is to hold your finger upright with the nail facing away from you. “Apply the oil behind the free edge, so you reach the nail bed, and have it drip through the sides before massaging it into your cuticle.”
You can use pure jojoba oil or, for a richer overnight option, try Karmameju’s multi-tasking Calm Balm with nourishing calendula, argan and meadow foam oils.
Cuticle-cosseting formulas
Put your nails through rehab
It’s an inconvenient truth, but polish dries out your nails. Those with excessive peeling and split nails may need to undergo an all-out detox and forgo polish for a few weeks.
During this time, switch to a nail strengthener – a hybrid treatment and base coat in one. "Nail strengthener is optional after removal, but great for when you’re having a break from gels or polish," says Humphrey, who recommends OPI's Nail Envy Dry & Brittle Nail Strengthener, which is formulated with concentrated calcium and hydrolyzed protein. "Just ensure the nail is wiped clean of any excess cuticle oil before applying," she adds.
Then when you're ready for a fresh coat of spring nail colour why not opt for a 'free from' varnish, which excludes any potentially toxic chemicals such as formaldehyde and xylene. Nailberry and Butter London are both good options.
The ultimate nail strengtheners
Look at your diet
As with everything, diet is a consideration, too. One low in vitamin A, calcium and iron is a common cause of brittle nails. Studies also show that nails prone to breakage may be a sign of a biotin deficiency so think about upping your intake of foods such as eggs, avocado, green vegetables and fish, as well as supplementing this B vitamin. Simply taking a 2.5mg biotin supplement daily has been shown to make nails thicker and increase their resilience to wear and tear.
