Fashion / Society

How an unassuming dentist collected one of Sweden’s greatest luxury fashion treasure troves

By Anna Clarke

Photo: Lars Brønseth

While we so often emphasise having the latest, at Vogue Scandinavia, we equally value unearthing hidden treasures of the past. When Stockholm resident Anna Alexandersson, a former dentist, passed away she left behind an extraordinary, previously undiscovered collection brought to light here for the very first time...

You don’t typically associate dentists with just-off-the-runway style. Normally they are all green bibs and bespectacled. But this wasn’t the case for one of Sweden’s most prolific fashion collectors, Anna Alexandersson, a dentist by trade, but a fashion lover in her heart.

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“Her collection includes iconic handbags, accessories and clothing from runways and collections that are extremely difficult to get hold of… The fact that a Swedish collector has so many rare pieces in a collection is extremely remarkable and unique,” explains Johanna Fock, a fashion specialist at auctioneers Bukowskis.

Faux fur bag, €5,500, Leather heels, €500. Both Chanel. . Photo: Lars Brønseth

Leather jacket, €100. Chloé. Embroidered turtleneck dress, €4,100. Prada. Pearl necklace, €800. Chanel. .

Shearling lambskin leather jacket, €4,500. Chanel. Chequered dress, €1,000. Yves Saint Laurent. Earrings, €210, Raven diamond ring, €2,300, Spikey ring, €210. All Maria Nilsdotter. ‘Kelly’ leather bag, €8,500. Hermès. Fishnet stockings. Stylist’s own. Photo: Lars Brønseth

The treasure trove of finds – which would have undoubtedly been coveted by many in Alexandersson’s time – actually flew under the radar for years, going undiscovered until her passing, when her expansive collection was revealed in all its true extraordinary glory. Among the rows upon rows of clothes, bags and shoes were Prada silk shirts, Chanel shearling coats, along with Louis Vuitton trunks (yes, multiple) and Alaïa skirts – the vast and dedicated years-in-the-making work of a true fashion fanatic.

But who exactly was the woman behind such a breathtaking assemblage? Alexandersson, who began collecting in a serious capacity some 25 years back, was in many ways a fashion historian and curator (be it a privately trained one) all rolled up into one unassuming woman. Her vast and often rare finds stretch from 1990s onwards and through her meticulous and unbridled love of luxury wear, there’s a time capsule to style now nestled in Stockholm, ready for other fashion enthusiasts to revel in.

From left to right: Leather and canvas jacket, €1,500. Gucci. Stone embroidered flower blouse, €800. Lanvin. Wool toile trousers, €800. Chanel. Kitten heels, €350. Anny Nord. Silk coat, €600. Marc Jacobs. Tie silk blouse, €600. Lanvin. Mini metallic skirt, €2,000. Chanel. Gauntlet gloves made with waste piece leather, €67. Mia Bøgedal. Kitten heels, €350. Anny Nord. Metallic shearling coat, €6,500. Chanel. Silk shirt, €200. Prada. Mini shorts, €1,500. Gucci. Earrings, €230. Maria Nilsdotter. Kitten heels, €350. Anny Nord. Bolero knitted cardigan, €500. Marc Jacobs. Blouse, worn underneath, €400. Lanvin. Midi skirt patent leather and suede, €600. Prada. Strass logo earrings, €600. Chanel. Gauntlet gloves, Fishnet stockings. Both stylist's own. Kitten heels, €350. Anny Nord. Photo: Lars Brønseth

Only by examining the sheer breadth of this wide collection, and the attention to detail that Alexandersson put into its upkeep, can one begin to understand how much care and dedication went into creating such a trove. “Anna was a woman of integrity who had a great passion for fashion,” details Marcus Nilsson, a fashion specialist at Bukowksis. “We strongly believe she collected for her own sake, from a place out of a genuine interest for design and fashion. She was a structured and passionate woman, with a flair for the beautiful things in life.”

In fact, our very own editor in chief, Martina Bonnier, recalls spotting Alexandersson at fashion industry events in and around the city. Though not directly working in the fashion world herself, it’s clear Alexandersson was eager to be surrounded by those in the know; never showy, but always attentive. “She was very passionate about fashion. She went to fashion events in Stockholm. She read all the fashion magazines,” concurs Robert Rydberg, fashion director at Vogue Scandinavia.

Photo: Lars Brønseth

Left to right: Scuba coat, €1,000, Embellished scuba dress, €1,200. Both Prada. ‘Jypsiere’ leather bag, €5,000, Leather bracelet with studs, €600. Both Hermès. Stainless steel ring, €50. Edblad. Stockings, €30. Falke. Patent heels, €29. H&M. Scuba jacket, €600, Trousers, €250. Both Prada. Leather belt with studs, €2,000, Leather bracelet with studs, €600. Both Hermès. Stainless steel ring, €50. Edblad. Socks, €8. Falke. Patent heels, €29. H&M. Scuba jacket, €600, Silk shirt, €250, Trousers, €250. All Prada. ‘Constance’ leather bag, €6,500. Hermès. Stainless steel ring, €50. Edblad. Socks, €8. Falke. Patent heels, €29. H&M. Photo: Lars Brønseth

Button up blouse, €300. Yves Saint Laurent. Jersey patch skirt, €1,000. Prada. Gauntlet gloves made with waste piece suede, €67. Mia Bøgedal. Fishnet stockings, €28. Swedish Stockings. Photo: Lars Brønseth

Metallic shearling coat, €6,500. Chanel. Silk shirt, €200. Prada. Silver spike earrings, €230. Maria Nilsdotter. Photo: Lars Brønseth

Rummaging through her luxury library, what really shines through every stitch and thread is her pure, unadulterated love for fashion. Her passion was so evident, Fock says, as was her :unique eye she had for finding the most iconic pieces from fashion houses such as Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Prada, to name just a few.” Some of the standouts (there were many) include a highly rare 2019 white Camelia jacket from Chanel, which is thought to be one of only 10 jackets ever made. And not forgetting of course the exquisite and highly prized pre-fall 2020 Birdcage minaudiere bag, a limited edition number designed by Chanel’s creative director Virginie Viard. The golden three-dimensional evening bag is a thing of eye-watering beauty; the cage door features two little birds, while at the bottom of it sits oval-shaped enamelled blue discs with gold flecks, signifying the bird’s eggs.

There’s also the high neck monogrammed Gucci jacket, with snap buttons and matching hot pants. “These are very legendary. It feels like a Posh Spice jacket when she was dating David Beckham,” says Rydberg. As well as all this, there’s also the fun and kitschy Chanel shopping basket bag, dreamed up by Karl Lagerfeld for the fall/winter 2014 runway collection, with its black lambskin trim fashioned with silver-plated brass accents; another supremely sought-after get and a purchase that would make many of us weep with envy.

Leather and canvas jacket, €1,500. Gucci. Photo: Lars Brønseth

See-through coat, €2,000. Chanel. Sequin blouse, €800. Marc Jacobs. Blouse, worn underneath, €200. Burberry. Skirt, €300. Miu Miu. Runway ‘birdcage minaudiére’ handbag, €12,000, See-through gloves, €600. Both Chanel. Leather bracelet with studs, €600. Hermès. Stretch suede knee-high boots, €1,400. Piferi. Photo: Lars Brønseth

Jacket, €600. Giambatista Valli. Sequin and crystal embellished blouse, €1,000. Chloé. Knitted metallic skirt, €600. Alaïa. Embellished knitted headband, €1,200. Chanel. Earcuff, €170. Maria Nilsdotter. Crystal embellished ball necklace, €1,200, Runway shopping basket bag, €12,000, Runway crystal ball clutch bag, €15,000, ‘Gabrielle’ bag, €4,000, Leather side pack crossbody bag, €6,500, Necklace, worn as a belt, €1,500. All Chanel. Gauntlet gloves. Stylist's own. Photo: Lars Brønseth

Tweed jacket, €800. Balenciaga. Button up blouse, €300. Yves Saint Laurent. Face piercings. Model’s own. Photo: Lars Brønseth

Tweed jacket, €800. Balenciaga. Jersey patch skirt, €1,000. Prada. Gauntlet gloves made with waste piece suede, €67. Mia Bøgedal. ‘Perfume bottle’ bag, €10,000. Chanel. Fishnet stockings, €12. H&M. Heels. Stylist's own. Photo: Lars Brønseth

What permeates throughout the collection is the idea that through fashion and clothes, one can move beyond your present, traverse country borders and even travel the world – all in your mind’s eye of course. Though she bought her pieces locally in Stockholm, by plucking treasured pieces off the Parisian runway, Alexandersson could meander the streets of the French capital. “I went through all these rails of clothes and there’s so much white, and off-white romantic pieces. It’s not very not Sweden – it must have been her dream of herself,” says Rydberg. “You can see that there is a romantic side of her.”

Alexandersson also knew wholeheartedly what suited her. And when she liked a particular piece, she really liked it – often buying things again and again in alternative colourways, always preserving each and every one of her articles with keen attention. “She had been taking care of it all so meticulously,” explains Rydberg. “She has all the dust bags, the bags from the store, and the card detailing that it's a proper Chanel bag, and the receipt is kept, too. And she also put little paper hangers on everything where she wrote: 'Bought this on this day, from shop attendant Anna.'"

Jacket, €600. Prada. Blouse with sequins collar, €400. Miu Miu. Silk satin skirt, €2,500. Chanel. Silver spike earrings, €230. Maria Nilsdotter. Leather bags, sold separately, €300. Prada. Photo: Lars Brønseth

See-through coat, €2,000. Chanel. Sequin blouse, €800. Marc Jacobs. Blouse, worn underneath, €200. Burberry. Face piercings. Model’s own. Photo: Lars Brønseth

Left to right: Gold embellished jacket, €4,500. Chanel. Blouse, €400. Giambatista Valli. Mini skirt, €1,200. Prada. Earrings, €230. Maria Nilsdotter. Stainless steel bangle bracelet, sold separately, €60, Stainless steel ring, €50. Both Edblad. ‘Sac Vanity’ wooden bag, €10,000. Chanel. Fishnet stockings, €12. H&M. Leather jacket, €100. Chloé. Embroidered turtleneck dress, €4,100. Prada. Jewellery box, €4,000. Louis Vuitton. Pearl necklace, €800. Chanel. Stainless steel bangle bracelet, €60, Stainless steel ring, €50. Both Edblad. Fishnet stockings, €12. H&M. Coat, €5,000, Dress, €5,000. Both Prada. Beauty box, €3,500. Louis Vuitton. Earring, €210, Earcuff, €170. Both Maria Nilsdotter. Necklace, €800. Chanel. Stainless steel bangle bracelet, €60, Stainless steel ring, €50. Both Edblad. Fishnet stockings, €12. H&M. Photo: Lars Brønseth

Patchwork coat, €3,000. Prada. Drop glass and pearl earring, €600. Chanel. Photo: Lars Brønseth

And because of this acute preservation, the value of the items skyrocket. It’s especially crucial in today’s vintage and resale market where proving authenticity is key to the successful sale of an item. “Anna looked after her objects in an exemplary manner and this because she understood the importance of it, looking at the collection as an investment. This is a collection where almost all pieces are in absolute mint condition, which makes it even more attractive to collectors worldwide,” explains Nilsson.

And as the collection is unveiled to the world, we should think back and give a little smile and a nod to the fascinating woman behind the closet doors who left such a style legacy. As Rydberg asserts: “She must have known somehow.”

Anna Alexandersson's pieces will be auctioned online from 15 March until 26th March. Learn more about the collection, auctioned by Bukowskis here.

Photo: Lars Brønseth

Left to right: Jacket, €600. Marc Jacobs. Stone and pearl embellished dress, €1,000. Giambattista Valli. Crochet bucket hat, €200, Shoulder bag, €400. Both Prada. Stainless steel bangle bracelet, €60,Stainless steel ring, €50. Both Edblad. Vegan suede crystal embellished boots, €610. Piferi. Tweed jacket, €2,000. Marc Jacobs. Dress, €1,200. Balenciaga. Crochet bucket hat, €200. Prada. Earrings, €230. Maria Nilsdotter. Shoulder bag, €400. Prada. Socks, €8. Falke. Vegan suede crystal embellished platform sandals, €640. Piferi. Photo: Lars Brønseth

Photographer: Lars Brønseth
Stylist: Roberth Rydberg
Hair Stylist: Karolina Liedberg
Makeup Artist: Nihal Mohamed
Models: Oceane, Liz, Juni, Judith
Photographer Assistants: Mehran Pakgohar, Johan Wirén
Stylist Assistants: Amelie Langenskiöld, Hanna Rothstein, Rebecka Thorén, Olivia Ekelund
Hair Stylist Assistant: Isabell Larsson
Makeup Artist Assistant: Danella Ericsson
Casting Director: Åsa Karyd
Production: Lomo Mgmt

Special Thanks to Bukowskis