“Scandinavia is all about integrity of design and Bally is the same”: An exclusive chat with the house’s new creative director

Rhuigi Villaseñor’s debut collection for Bally as creative director, shown in Milan in September, was titled ‘Ecdysis’. It’s a biological term for the shedding of skin that some reptiles and insects experience in their lifecycle. A symbolic name, given the metamorphous reset that Villaseñor has represented for the Swiss luxury house.

Marking two decades since the last Bally show, the ambitious spring/summer 2023 collection was met with acclaim. Sleek silhouettes oozed high-octane glamour, like a butter-soft suede bodysuit with a plunging neckline, glossy water snake finishes rendered across coats and boots alike, and an elevated Canadian tuxedo – now becoming something of a signature. The subsequent autumn/winter 2023 show was a seamless continuation with silk-cut tailoring, opulent velvets, and puffed up proportions played out in shearling.

They’re the kind of clothes that are to be worn to enjoy life in. It’s something that Villaseñor, a Filipino and American national, acknowledges himself. “My references are American because that’s where I discovered brands and formed the majority of my cultural connections,” he tells Vogue Scandinavia, “but I’m enjoying immersing myself in the European art of living.”

Seven years prior to the Bally appointment, in 2015, Villaseñor had started his own label Rhude, which he remains at the helm of concurrently with Bally. It was Nicolas Girotto, CEO of Bally, who initially approached Villaseñor for a collaboration, “but we were aligned on so many things that it turned into much more,” the creative director explains.

Now based between Los Angeles and Lugano, Switzerland, Villaseñor is on something of a career high. “I’m a dreamer, and Bally is a dream come true,” he states.

As evidenced by his first two collections, Villaseñor’s visual narrative gives a unique reinterpretation of the contemporary wardrobe, combining modern silhouettes, relaxed tailoring and streetwear elements. His design approach captures nostalgic reflections and references American iconography while reinterpreting Bally’s history through a new lens. “Bally is on a journey to become a household name. I’m digging down into the roots of the brand – the heritage, the luxury of true craft – and introducing it to a new audience, in a bold way,” Villaseñor says.

The nostalgia that Villaseñor references has a personal meaning. “I grew up with Bally. Both my father and grandfather had shoes from the brand that I later went on to ‘borrow’ when I was of age," he recounts. "I knew it to be about craft and heritage and it still is."

Rifling back through Bally’s rich and storied history is what is inspiring Villaseñor’s vision as well. “To go forwards, often you have to look back. All the answers lie in the archive. Bally’s history is exceptionally preserved, and endlessly inspiring. Quality doesn’t date,” he remarks. The new emblem that Villaseñor has unveiled for the brand was a special archive discovery too. “Bally used to make elastics, and I loved the way two of them intertwined made this abstract ‘B.’ Expect to see it everywhere,” he says.

There’s a well-considered, pared-back streak throughout Villaseñor’s work for Bally, so it’s no surprise that he feels there's a Scandinavian character to the designs. “To me, Scandinavia is all about integrity of design and Bally is the same,” he muses. “We also share a need to dress for the elements in new, inventive and practical ways – which is always a fun challenge,” he says.

The Villaseñor-driven renaissance will be supercharged in collections to come, with a continued appreciation of craft and his “perception of opulence and luxury," he says. And how will the young designer build on and strengthen this elevated direction? Villaseñor responds simply: “By living well."