ReVogue with Johanna Thorén

Do you have a jacket – leather, denim, or any kind of blazer – in your wardrobe that you no longer love? Berlin-based Swedish designer Johanna Thorén is offering one complimentary repair service to a Vogue Scandinavia Society member. To have your piece upcycled, send an email with an image of the piece to info@voguescandinavia.com, including the subject line 'ReVogue submission'

Amongst the many signature, worn-on-high-rotation pieces in the wardrobe of Vogue Scandinavia’s editor in chief Martina Bonnier is an enviable black biker jacket. It’s a classic design with a customised twist: hand-painted female silhouettes and pointy stars that play out in fine white paint across the garment’s well-worn leather.

The jacket had been in Bonnier’s closet for some time before it was given a new life at the hand of fashion designer Johanna Thorén. Thorén, who is currently based in Berlin and works at couture house Dawid Tomaszewski as production and atelier manager, has been working with paintwork on jackets since she was a teenager living in Stockholm – describing the unique method of customisation as something of an entry point into fashion design for her. “I would say painting on jackets was kind of the first step into ‘creation’ for me, when it comes to fashion. It was an easy way for me to do it without too much knowledge,” she explains.”I felt like it was very difficult for me to find interesting jackets that no one else was wearing, so then I decided to make them more interesting by doing them myself.”

Now, with four years of training in Florence under her belt and several years of hand-on experience at Dawid Tomaszewski, Thorén’s repertoire of skills has expanded rapidly. “With all the knowledge that I’ve gained from my studies and now my job, I also have the skills to make the garments from scratch and upcycle things in different ways,” Thorén says.

In her current role in Berlin, Thorén oversees the making of couture pieces and customised pieces as well as the production of its ready-to-wear line: responsible for managing suppliers, sourcing of fabrics, sampling processes and that garments are simply sewn correctly. “My artistic and creative language is definitely changing, as I have more experience now than I did when I was 15, but I really think this painting on jackets is something I will always do.”

But why jackets? “I love the fact that you can wear a jacket for any occasion and there are so many possibilities with it,” Thorén responds. “And then, to customise it so it’s perfect for a specific person gives so much value to the garment, which is what I love.” Similar to the designer’s current work with couture production in Berlin, this personal creative venture is all about personalisation and expression. “What inspired me the most is individuality and really expressing something through art or garments. So that’s what I’m trying to do with the jackets. It then holds a message about the person wearing it, and also becomes a timeless piece in your wardrobe – not something that is a trend or dependent on a specific season.”

Thorén’s clear vision is inspired in no small part by Vivienne Westwood, a label that’s well-versed in expressive and timeless pieces. “It’s her strong values – both in sustainability but also rebellion and historical references,” Thorén says of the late namesake designer. “It’s good to have something that has a message. A bit of rebellion is inspiring, while still valuing history and heritage.”