Rebel with a (clothing) cause: The ‘80s is back with a bang

Any mention of the '80s brings forth images of neon aerobics-wear, padded shoulders and big, big hair. But that was just the tip of the fashion iceberg of this era. At its core, '80s fashion was a reflection of the rebellious nature of the time, the desire to move away from constraints. In the words of Cyndi Lauper, “Girls Just Want(ed) to Have Fun,” leaving the more conservative choices of previous generations behind to live life to its fullest, rules be damned.

Today’s '80s revival is a little more understated. But, although subdued, all the signs are there. Silhouettes are exaggerated and choices are leaning towards extremes: oversized or body-con, or both at the same time. There is structured suiting and mis-matched pairings that are all the more cool for their lack of obviousness. Things that seemed gauche 10 years ago are now coveted. And the '80s were the same. Maximalism came out in full swing, and the runway showmanship that seems to be at its peak today had its true emergence back in the beginning of this fun-fuelled decade (read: Thierry Mugler's autumn/winter 1983 collection).

This rebellion, like all others, is about breaking rules. Things that should be worn under our clothes have started peaking out. Like briefs and string straps over waist-lines. Things that weren’t intended to be paired together are. A cropped knit with a long washed denim coat. Flouncy frills with a sport jacket. Rugby shirts with leather maxi skirts. A zip-up with an oversize blazer. All rounded off with some big statement accessories. Let’s take it from the top:

Washed denim, which has been all the rage recently, actually first appeared in the '80s. This marbled Miu Miu denim maxi coat from the brand's spring/summer 2023 show is a perfect example. Making one of the strongest recent cases for washed denim is Jade Cropper’s low waisted maxi skirt from its spring/summer 2023 collection, a piece that has become somewhat of a signature for the designer. After being sported by Gigi Hadid last year, similar looks are now flooding the high street. You could also turn to jeans or jackets, such as this over-dyed number from Isko and Parnell Mooney. Here, a supersized fit makes a statement that gives edge to any look. Or, if you’re lucky enough to find a matching set, paired to create a distressed Canadian tuxedo.

Next, sequins, studs and gems. Alongside colourful, exaggerated jewellery, the '80s had a true abundance of sequins. And they were often worn all-out, head to toe, on the likes of superstar style gurus Cher and Diana Ross. If there’s anyone this sequin-embroidered poncho from Valentino is channelling, it's these iconic divas.

And its punkier counterpart (as was equally prevalent during this decade), is this studded floor-length jacket from Rokh. Details reminiscent of the subversive part of this era have also been showing itself, often in small doses. Like it does on these safety-pin trousers from Esau Yori, which bring a welcome hint of rock n’ roll. Mixing princess with punk is a textbook '80s pick, and can be achieved by piecing together anything quintessentially girly with outerwear or accessories with bite. Fishnets, studs, spikes and chains were all essentials to experiment with.

And lest we forget, you can’t talk about the '80s without talking about the tailoring. The oversize blazer is a piece that is very dear to our Scandinavian hearts. A good one can be thrown over pretty much anything and ooze a cool, calm and collected style. And the '80s inspiration here is endless, starting with Princess Diana’s blazer and legging combinations that are both classic and rebellious all at once.

Following the same theme of wearing sportswear with something a little more classy, opt for a frilled dress, such as this one from Dries Van Noten, worn together with a racing jacket – our iteratino is Palace Skateboard's. Other avant garde pairings include a Martine Rugby shirt over a maxi leather skirt from Jordan Luca. It's almost reminiscent of Rihanna’s recent viral pregnancy ensemble, wearing a Wu-Tang football jersey over an oversized white shirt and rounded off with “oodles” of diamonds (Vogue US). Even this metallic leather jacket from Louis Vuitton, worn over a crisp shirt and, yes, a pair of tracksuit bottoms, delivers impact.

All in all, the '80s resurgence is here to tell you one thing: do not be afraid. We’re heading towards embracing a ‘more is less’ mentality when it comes to creative combinations. Fashion rules are there to evolve and be broken, and there’s simply much more fun to be had when you embrace going all out.