Orit Elhanati's magical jewellery pieces are captivating audiences across the world. She tells Vogue Scandinavia about making her "chaotic thoughts tangible" and how a childhood split between Copenhagen and Tel Aviv informs her designs
When Orit Elhanati couldn't find jewellery pieces that she wanted to wear, she decided to make her own. It's a simple enough origin story, but her intricate designs are anything but - the exquisite items that comprise her eponymous brand can sometimes take months to create. And the idea is that their intrinsic timeless quality will help them last even longer.
“My main motive is designing things that I personally crave and want," she says. "For me, the achievement lies in seeing my chaotic thoughts become something tangible. I strive to create something that will outlive both you and me. It is a huge gift to be able to do this, and I take it very seriously. It is a humbling feeling, knowing that I am part of helping people tell their stories, to create something that will be passed down for centuries.”
Because I am a mix of two worlds, I created my own universe.
Orit Elhanati
In search of the perfect asymmetry
Orit Elhanati founded her label in 2012 and it didn't take her long to gain recognition. She was still studying to be a goldsmith when Copenhagen concept store Storm Fashion bought one of her first collections. Before long, Elhanati was now one of the most sought-after jewellery designers and a true household name in the jewellery world.
As the daughter of a Danish mother and Israeli father, she draws inspiration from childhood memories of summers in Tel Aviv and her upbringing in Denmark. “Because I am a mix of two worlds, I have created my own universe. Memories of the Middle East are present in my everyday life and therefore also in my work. I have strong memories of my family, where both men and women would always wear jewellery. Their natural way of being fully dripped in gold jewellery, layering chain by chain is imprinted in my mind.”
It’s the harmony in these seemingly contrasting worlds that forms the foundation of all of Elhanati’s designs, she explains. “Many of the things I create are stories about the streets of Jerusalem, the path to the Dead Sea, the textures of the mountains, cliffs and desert lines. The stories that characterise that world become lines and forms in my designs. Like the textures of the Rock styles that are based on rocks from the Sinai desert, Drawn that has conches from the Dead Sea incorporated into the gold, String that evolved from old coins of Jerusalem, or Palma that is a tribute to my Scandinavian roots with a Middle Eastern twist.”
Her blend of twin heritages results in raw yet timeless designs. “I like to mix those memories with the elegant Scandinavian minimalism. The clean and minimalistic aesthetic merges with my chaotic side of raw textures which results in a very special balance and symmetrical symmetry in the jewellery pieces," she says. "I like to work these small stories into the gold, and aim for perfection only to disassemble everything again, until the symmetry becomes perfect asymmetry.”
Her own gold standard
The appeal of Elhanati's jewellery lies in these organic, almost sculptural designs and the discreet use of precious stones and diamonds. She has a very distinctive way of working which is why you will never see any piece that looks the same. “I never sketch or draw, but work from a very intuitive process," she explains. "My pieces are like miniature sculptures that consist of many layers. Because the gold needs to tell a story, I drip it layer by layer and use my hammer to create forms. I melt the gold to get it to drip again and create the raw, sexy textures I want to achieve. The final result still shows those raw edges that at the same time have a very clean expression.”
What makes Elhanati’s creations even more unique is the specific colour of the gold she uses, one that is mixed exclusively for the brand. “The yellow gold I use has a direct connection to the Middle East,” she reveals. “The gold is made of a secret blend that has a matte finish in the beginning and becomes more polished over time, as the jewellery and its story evolve with the bearer."
The focus on storytelling, evidently doesn't take away from the actual craft. In fact, it's the combination of these two attributes that give Elhanati's jewellery its power. Ever the artisan, she adds, "We mix modern techniques with old craftmanship, and craft everything by hand in our studio in Copenhagen. To me, it is all about the material, and I love to comprehend every inch of it.”
Related: Danish models Cecilie and Amalie Moosgaard on designing jewellery for the non-jewellery person
Telling stories
Elhanati’s true goal is not only to use her own stories for her designs, but to help create new ones for the wearer through the jewellery pieces, she says. “When I design, I am in my own world, isolated with my own thoughts. But my jewellery would be nothing without the outer world. For me it's the story in a piece of jewellery that conveys the message. There is a symbolic meaning connected to the pendants on the necklaces, that protect and empower the bearer. A protective talisman of a sort.
"I am a mix of two cultures and have tried to find my way amidst the chaos to create my own universe – one that can be complex yet electrifying, but it is my story," she adds. "The Elhanati women and men are strong characters, with a high aesthetic appeal and an appreciation for the unique things in life. They stand out and I want my jewellery to help tell their story.”