As part of Vogue Scandinavia's Ode to the Beauty Artist series, we shine a light on the beauty teams behind the scene of our shoots and films. To kick it off, we chat to the hair master himself, Johan Hellström
Johan Hellström is the owner of Björn Axén, hairdresser to Swedish royals, a backstage icon and the go-to hair magician on the set of photoshoots, films and musicals including Phantom of the Opera. He’s also the artist whose whimsical inspiration for Shima Niavarani in the movie Shapeshifter or A Tale of Stockholm was a Spanish courtier. Here Johan Hellström speaks to Vogue Scandinavia about what keeps him creatively inspired, the psychology of hairdressing and the ladies of the 1600s Spanish court.
Do you see yourself as an artist?
Yes, I work very much as an artist. Usually hair and make-up is something you expect to have and no one really thinks about where it comes from or how much work is behind it – the dress, model and fashion house get all the credit. But when I cut hair, I see myself as an architect. I build the shape, I build something that works with the personality and the bone structure with the material that I have in front of me. It’s sculptural but I also have to understand the psychology of the person. My only goal is to make them feel happier with who they are. I can indulge my own ego backstage at a fashion show. But when it comes to clients, I have to try to enhance their personality because when the inner and the outer come together, that’s when you create a signature look that makes this person become something they might not have believed was possible.
What is beauty to you?
When I see someone bloom, when I see someone fall a little bit more in love with themselves and with how they look – that is beauty.
What were you like as a child?
I was into everything that had to do with movement, music and art. I was on the swim team. I was in the top team for skiing and competed for the school in gymnastics. I made my own shirts. Of course, my parents wanted me to become a doctor or a lawyer, and I had great grades, but that was never going to happen as I loved being creative.
Photo: Björn Axen
When did you first discover your passion for doing hair?
As a kid, I only had one dream: to become a dancer, which I did. Then I went to see Björn Axén to see if I could be a trainee. I didn't really think beyond just getting the information and getting paid. But then I got the chance to become his assistant. He was the most famous hairdresser in the country and I understood that you don't turn this opportunity down! Suddenly I realised that I had been preparing for this moment all my life without knowing it. From the age of seven or eight I was always cutting people’s hair. I even found my first ‘hairdressing’ price list I had made for my friends! I remember creating those tiny Bo Derek braids. It took me like 14 hours, but I did it because I loved hair from the start.
Are there any similarities between being a dancer and a hair artist?
If you're in a dance company, you need to pull your sensors out. You have to feel the people around you – that’s really important. There’s also the discipline. You need to be 100 percent focused – I really learnt that when I did musicals. Nothing can go wrong because everyone depends on you.
What does hair artistry mean to you?
In everyday life, it’s making people feel more confident. But when it comes to artistry in a movie like Shapeshifter: or A Tale of Stockholm you can go mad! It’s almost like Alice in Wonderland. You start to exaggerate and, of course, I love that because then there are no boundaries. You bounce ideas off the wardrobe designer, the makeup artist and the nail technician. We turn all ideas, everything, upside down – it’s a very creative process. And that’s when something beautiful happens.
What was the inspiration behind the look for Shima Niavarani?
When I saw what Shima was wearing – this very Marie Antoinette look that she’d spoken about – and all these pearls, I thought let’s go with a look like the ladies in the Spanish court during the 1600s and I created a modern version of that bob. Shima transforms into different personalities so I also had to think of a wet look for when she goes into the water.
The tools in your kit are like magic wands. Do you mood board how you’re going to transform a model or actress?
I always come super prepared with a lot of ideas! I like the security. A mood board is a good way of showing the rest of the creative team what I'm thinking. But it never turns out exactly the way I thought it would! Sometimes I’ll be inspired on set and do a quick sketch and we’ll run with that instead!
Who has inspired you most in your career?
Worldwide I was inspired by Vidal Sassoon – big time – but also very much Monsieur Alexandre. What he did, you know, in the history of his career was unbelievable. The perfection, the knowledge and architectural haircuts. Björn worked with Monsieur Alexandre, of course, so I am a bit influenced by what he told me but also reading the books about him and looking at the pictures of the styles he created. Working with the Swedish royal family and creating these unbelievable hairdos using jewels has inspired me. And my colleague Peter Hägelstam, because he is the most technical hairdresser I have ever met.
Photo: Peter Gehrke
How important is the role of the beauty artist for creating the transformations we see in movies, in shoots and on the runway?
It’s tremendously important. Look at Game of Thrones. If you take away the hair and the makeup, what is left? I really believe that through these movies and TV series people have begun to understand the important role of the beauty artist and how the looks they create tell a story.
What keeps you creatively inspired?
Nature has the best colour palette. I get inspired by birds – their feathers, the colours. In shoots sometimes the beauty is in the imperfection or daring to stand out as different. We recently did a photoshoot in Paris with some amazing models. I found this artist who was 78 and she had the most stunning bright pink hair. When she sits there painting with hair like that, it's like poetry. I'm open to inspiration from everywhere.
