What is Northern Gothic? This season’s monochrome has a supernatural flavour

This season the Scandi take on the established goth trend has brought the region’s signature irreverence to the fore. It blends twisted glamour with a distinctly modern, whimsical bite. There is humour and edge to this look: take Maison Margiela’s chessboard top and long-sleeved body: both are a playful nod to Ingmar Bergman’s 1957 film, The Seventh Seal, and its seminal chess game with death. A sense of the macabre snakes its way throughout this look in this way, but it is expertly paired with a sense of old-school propriety. Just look at Olivier Theysksen’s leather gloves, which have all the charm of a night at the opera, but the tactility of a dark BDSM fantasy.

Northern Gothic is all about this feverish and humorous juxtaposition. Think of the twisted wit of Edgar Allen Poe and take his iconic raven as your guide, as you step into a twisted fairytale with lace collars, veiled gowns and dramatic moments like Valentino’s sumptuous caped number. But far from being the costumery of Gothic romanticism, ground the look with contemporary trimmings. The diaphanous delicacy of Alaia’s silk veiled confection is delightfully off-set by the harsh leather of boots, gloves and belts. This is Corpse Bride does biker chic- an aesthetic which trickled through the spring/summer 2022 catwalks, from black lace at Dolce & Gabbana and the Gothic prom dresses at Alexander McQueen to the Hellraiser-inspired leather at Richard Quinn and Jenny Hytönen.

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Those less inclined to embrace their inner haunted soul, may prefer the pop end of this trend, which foregrounds metallics and the monochrome impishness of the Mod-era with a subtle dose of Tim Burton surrealism. Dior’s lace up pumps have more than a little of Mary Quant’s sixties chic and a nod to Alice through the looking glass. There are Harlequin patterns and Beetlejuice stripes, like Marni’s corseted maxi dress, and studded punk accents take full form in the shiny quirk of Balenciaga’s foil dress and Loewe’s metallic breast plated denim. Take your cues from the theatrical monochromes seen on the runway at Rick Owens or Caroline Herrera, and the shimmering armour at Bottega Veneta and Christopher Kane. If Barberella was the heroine of one of Nathaniel Hawthorne’s ghoulish tales, you know this is what she would be wearing.

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As ever, working this look is all about carefully executing your inspirations, mixing the romanticism with the absurd, the surreal with the everyday. Existing looks can get a Northern Gothic upgrade. Layer leathers under dark jersey bodycon, like this ruched Balmain mini, or transform a chic white strapless gown with a band tee poking out beneath. Mix your fabrics; soft tulles accented with latex or leather or lace chokers offsetting studs. Temper monochromes with denim, or add metallic splashes to soft creams. Add quirky details, from laces to belts, from spikes to foils. You can’t go wrong, just let your imagination lead you somewhere dark, spirited and mysterious.