Novelty handbags may not be new, but they're back on the agenda... our handbag expert Marianne Theodorsen takes a closer look at the history of this merger between fashion and pop art
Long gone are the days when your purse served merely as a practical item to carry your belongings in. Today a bag is a statement more than anything else. A true testament to your personality, and something where fashion often overcomes functionality.
There are heaps of functional bags to choose from if you're on the lookout for a new piece. But if you're in the market for something more mood-boosting than your regular tote, consider the novelty bag your go-to. While they might not be the most practical, they are precisely what the doctor ordered after two years of sweatpants and a life less lived. I mean, who wouldn't want to carry an actual cherry to top off their outfit?
Novelty bags are nothing new, but it wasn't until the 1950's they stepped into the sartorial spotlight. After years of struggles (two world wars and a great recession) with rationing and restrictions, mostly modest accessories were considered acceptable. However, when the American economy grew, people were ready to have some fun. Thus, bags with childish embroideries or in the shapes of an animal were no longer reserved for the kids, and many women were happy to sport this new and less severe side of fashion.
Judith Leiber was a driving force for novelty handbags. Photo: @judithleiberNY
One iteration of Judith Leiber's penguins. Photo: Gary Mamay; Courtesy the Leiber Collection
Judith Leiber had a significant impact on the concept of Novelty bags as fashionable. Through the decades, she'd approach her sources for inspiration literally. One of the designer's personal favourites was in the shape of a penguin, inspired by a friend who returned from the Arctic.
Her whimsical designs could be found clutched to celebrities like Greta Garbo and Elizabeth Taylor, carried by New York's fashion elite and on many a First Lady, including Mamie Eisenhower and Jackie Kennedy. However, it wasn't until 1970, when she designed her first crystal-covered minaudèrie, that her bags soared in popularity.
The bags reached cult status in the 1990s after being featured on the second season of Sex and The City. Namely, season 2, episode 10, in which Carrie throws a fit after Mr Big gives her a jewel-encrusted duck clutch. The scene catapulted Judith Leiber into the pop culture lexicon, seeing another meteoric rise in the popularity of novelty handbags.
Today Judith Leiber's pieces come in shapes ranging from simple box clutches to intricate cocktail glasses, dollar bills, animals and fruits. These eccentric evening bags are a red-carpet favourite amongst a-listers, and the brand have shown us there are no limitations to what a bag can be.
Photo: HBO
While these bags have always been on the agenda, their lasting impact has been undeniable over the last couple of seasons. Novelty handbags have cemented their foothold on modern runways since the resurgence around the early aughts. Every season we see new interpretations on the runway, which makes perfect sense in a world where it's all about those eye-catching objects.
Moschino is well worth mentioning here - they have made the quirky novelty purse a staple in their collections. When the brand sent their models down the runway for autumn/winter 2014, carrying bags that resembled the Happy Meal boxes and fries holders from McDonald's, the buzz that followed was unprecedented. There was also criticism with some people accusing Moschino of glorifying fast food, but that didn't seem to have too much effect, and the bags sold out instantly.
You might think these quicky clutches are exclusive to brands of a certain aesthetic, but even the major fashion Maisons like Chanel and Hermès have joined in on the fun.
Moschino autumn/winter 2014.
Chanel autumn/winter 2014.
Chanel debuts new novelty bags with every collection - a trend started under Karl Lagerfeld in the early '00s. The bags will often be a nod to the theme of the collection and extremely hard to come by. As a result, they are some of the most sought after bags out there. My personal favourites are the Matryoshka doll from the Métiers d'Art Paris-Moscow show in 2009 or the 'Lait du Coco' milk bag from their autumn/winter 2014 collection.
Hermès can also be said to have one of the rarest and most sought after novelty bags out there. The 'Quelle Idole' bag was produced for a store opening in Hong Kong in 2000 and features a shrunken down Kelly bag with a smiling face, leather arms and feet. Unfortunately, this bag has been discontinued, and these days it's exceedingly rare to find it on the resale market - should you be so lucky, you'll have to be prepared to really pay up (some have sold for as much as 80 000 Euros).
Gucci autumn/winter 2021.
Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2021.
Looking at many of these bags, a common denominator is that they're hardly convenient in everyday life. However, that doesn't seem relevant, especially not when considering that these unusual bags have been the centre of some of the most notable fashion moments recently. For example, Gucci's anatomically correct heart-shaped bag from the Aria collection was one of the most talked-about beats from a very talked-about show. Then, there is the plane bag designed by late Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton vent viral not only for its design but also for its astonishing price tag of 39 000 USD.
So yes, while we can undoubtedly agree that the novelty bag doesn't necessarily meet your most urgent bag needs (or fit your budget), we set out to celebrate these pieces for what they really are: works of wearable art.
