How hairstylist Sainabou Chune is changing the beauty game for the better

Even though we're seeing black representation across industries increase, there is still work to be done. One person leading the charge is Sainabou Chune. Currently one of the only black session hairstylists represented by a Swedish talent agency, her work navigates all sorts of hair textures, highlighting the need for all hairstylists to have the knowledge and education about all kinds of hair. Her work celebrates the changes we see in the industry worldwide but she feels there is still a lot of progress to be made on diversity behind the camera.

In this creative shoot, by photographer Patricia Reyes and stylist Maria Barsoum, Chune is channelling her inner Rihanna and rocking maternity style with aplomb.

How did you get into your career? Did you always know you want to do hair?

I started doing hair around the age of 12 or 13. Back then, most of my friends were my guinea pigs. During my time at hairdressing school, I got an internship at Blacknuss Hair N Care. You would find me there every weekend and holiday, basically whenever I had time off from school.

My internship opened up a new world where I was allowed to attend amazing hair shows in the UK. I started going back and forth whenever I had the chance. My family and friends in London and simply the black British culture inspired me. This gave me an insight into the possibilities of black hairstyling. I met people I could see myself in and I got great inspiration for hairstyles for both myself and future clients. At this moment I realised I wanted to work with magazines and fashion, but I still had no idea how to get into the business.

What did you do after you graduated?

I worked at the salon and then I decided to move to Gambia for a year. I’m of Gambian-Finnish heritage and one of my aunts had a salon where I worked as a hairdresser. This set me off to work professionally at different salons when returning to Sweden.

What was it like working in a salon in Gambia?

In Gambia, you have a different relationship with your hair than in Sweden. Black hair is ultimately about self-expression and is closely linked to identity, culture, and community. Going to the hairdresser is part of your weekly routine. It’s more similar to America and England where you go to the hairdressers on national holidays, if you're going out, or for your weekly wash and style.

Where do you get your inspiration from?

When I was young I would get my inspiration from watching music videos on MTV; Destiny’s Child, Mary J Blige, and different reggae videos. I would also get a lot of inspiration from different black hair magazines.

Nowadays I get my inspiration from different cultures, music and people watching.

How did you find your way into that world?

When I came back from Gambia someone had heard that I knew how to braid. A person called me to assist a hairstylist in braiding, for a fashion show. The hairstylist needed someone to do braids and cornrows on every model and that's how I got 'headhunted'. She saw my potential and took me in as her assistant and I then started assisting other hairstylists too, purely by word of mouth.

What advice would you give someone who's starting out?

The best way to learn how to be a really good session hairstylist is to assist. You can never skip that part. When you assist, you learn from experienced professionals and you get to see the real thing. You don't only learn about how to do hair, you also learn how to behave while on set, about lighting, and being part of a team, you learn the full 360.

Going to hairdressing school taught me the basics, but what you need is to think outside the box and be creative. Today, I still assist other hairstylists that do work I really like and get inspired by. That’s how I still learn and grow as a hairstylist because lifelong learning is key to progress. That's the truth. You can never have too much knowledge. Never.

How do you think brands and clients should support more BIPOC creatives?

First of all, inclusiveness, equality and representation are part of our basic human rights. Self-awareness is the most efficient way to reach inclusion within your company. We can ask ourselves; What can I do to support a more diverse working environment? Am I, as a creative or a company, doing all I can to increase diversity? It's very easy to go for what you know and do what you’ve always done.

What advice do you have for other hairstylists who don’t know all types of hair or all types of skin?

You don't need to be an expert in all types of hair, but you need to be honest and let your customer or client know your limitations. Take a step back and leave room for other creatives who know. If you have an interest in working within something you have limited skills in; educate yourself or go back to assisting someone who knows. And as I said earlier you can never have too much knowledge. Invest in yourself.

What inspired this shoot?

I don’t think anyone has missed seeing Rihanna during her pregnancy. We can all agree she's changed the perception of how you can dress as a pregnant woman. I've never seen a pregnant woman dress like this; sexy and with impeccable style. It's so refreshing and inspiring. When Patricia Reyes and Maria Barsoum suggested a Rihanna-inspired pregnancy shoot I thought it sounded fun and a way to honour what she is doing. This was actually shot before her Italian Vogue story was published. Just the fact that she looks goddamn hot and gorgeous in every single picture was inspiring. For me, used to being behind the camera, I must admit being very uncomfortable in the beginning. But I was doing it with Maria and Patricia, who I know and who I’ve worked with so many times. It took me a few breaths and seconds to feel 100 per cent secure in this new experience but they definitely brought the best out of me.

You’re eight months pregnant with your third child now. Do you see yourself having more kids?

I feel very, very content. I knew when I was pregnant with my second child that I always wanted to have a third child. After my third is born, I'm done… I think.

Where do you see yourself in the next five years to 10 years?

I would like to have another, different business of my own. I love doing session work and I don't think I'm going to give that up. But I want to have something more that still keeps me coming back to the core of hair. But I haven't really figured out what yet.

Tell us how you’ve created these two looks?

For the curly look with a bit of texture, I used Only Curls Hydrating Curl Creme & Only Curls Enhancing Curl Gel on wet hair and diffused the hair with Dyson Supersonic. When dry I started brushing out the hair slightly with my Mason Pearson brush. Lastly, I went in with a small curling wand on the surface to define. When I wanted more volume for the hair I brushed the hair out even more until I reached my desired volume and texture.

For the sleek top knot, I brushed all the hair up at first and then added EcoStyler styling gel to remove flyaways. I secured the top knot with a UHA Mulberry Silk Tie and then shaped it to the required result with the help of bobby pins. I finished off with some drops of Olaplex Bonding Oil to get that extra shine.