We all have things to carry around, no matter our gender. So why are purses are frowned upon for men?
According to a 2019 study featured on NBC News, some straight men opt for a plastic bag over a reusable tote for a trip to the local grocery store because they feel the latter appears more 'feminine' and 'gay'. Seemingly the same connotations come with caring about the environment and recycling? I am so confused.
How did we get here? I blame the TV show Friends. Well, at least in part. I never liked or watched the show but apparently, one problematic and outdated episode is behind the term 'man bag'. The episode is not only cringe-worthy but feeds toxic ideas of masculinity in the mainstream. It's also helped spark a whole range of gendered terms for bags — as I discovered when I searched 'man bag' on Google.
According to Urban Dictionary, a 'man bag' means a small handbag for a man (alternatively it can refer to testicles or a condom). But it doesn't stop there. 'Bro bag' refers to a man's gym bag and 'daddy sack' is... actually not what you think - it's used to describe a bag of infant's supplies carried by a father. I couldn’t help but share this new information with our very own beauty editor Esteban Villanueva (and now with you, I am so sorry). Villanueva told me he wished he'd never even heard of the term ‘daddy sack', though he admitted that “it has a meaning more wholesome than the name conveys.” I mean it does sound like something straight from Grindr.
But seriously, why do we insist on gendering something as simple as a bag?
Bottega Veneta autumn/winter 2022.
Gucci autumn/winter 2022.
Dior Homme autumn/winter 2022.
Villanueva likens the 'man bag' phenomenon to makeup products marketed to men. “Unfortunately, in most societies, makeup — in its base form — is still something that is seen as 'part of the women's section'. That's where gendering some products comes into play", he explains. “While it is intrinsically wrong as beauty products shouldn't be gendered, gendering does allow them to be accessible to a population that otherwise would feel not able to participate: a man, who feels alienated from makeup, suddenly finds a 'foundation for men' and unconsciously unlocks the capability of using it, as it was 'designed for him’."
You can see Villanueva sporting his new bag from the Danish brand Decadent on his Instagram (and on the streets of Stockholm). When I ask how wearing it makes him feel, he answers, “I love it. Wearing a bag that matches my look makes me feel like when I’m wearing a perfume that goes with my mood, it makes me feel complete".
Vogue Scandinavia's beauty editor, Esteban G Villaneuva, wearing a bag by Decadent Copenhagen . Photo: @estebangvillanueva
Villanueva says he prefers structured bags that hold their shape and are more square or angular. “Kinda corporate but also fashionable", as he puts it. On his current wishlist is the YSL Sac de Jour, but he also loves labels like Decadent, Acne and Saddler, while noting that he enjoys looking for characterful, unique finds from small brands and local boutiques. Nevertheless, for him, the name on the tag comes second. “The most important thing for me is to like and feel excited about the shape, design, colour and overall existence of the bag", he says.
London-based content creator Joel Mcloughlin is another bag enthusiast, despite rarely seeing men carrying bags when growing up in Manchester. “As I grew older and moved away from home, I started wearing ‘bum bags’", he says when I ask about his first bag memories, referring to the item also known as a 'fanny pack'. After catching the 'bum bag' bug, Mcloughlin began exploring other bag types, becoming especially smitten with crossbody bags. “My first ‘handbag’ was from Off-White and it was made of reflective silver material and I was obsessed with it," he says. "Not only could it hold all my belongings, I felt like it was an extension of me and my personal style."
Joel Mcloughlin wearing a Balenciaga handbag.
Joel Mcloughlin wearing an Arcana handbag. Photo: @gallucks
Today, Mcloughlin wears handbags regardless of the gender they were intended for. “If I like it, I wear it", he says simply. Bags are a constant feature on his Instagram. “I do sometimes get negative comments such as ‘ma’am that’s a purse’ but I really don’t care", he says, adding that he believes these comments say more about the person writing them than they do about himself.
Mcloughlin founded his own brand Arcana in 2021 and launched his first handbag a few months later. When he designed a crossbody bag for Arcana, he says gender never even entered his mind. “I see fashion and style as genderless. I get inspiration from all genders, and I like to think that any gender can wear the bag that I designed as it’s a very timeless, classic piece.”
Big brands such as Gucci are influencing fashion in a more inclusive direction but once again I believe the young emerging brands are the ones really paving the way. I would recommend checking out bags from Hodakova, Medea, Abra, Ratio et Motus, Kara and Venczel.
Venczel handbag. Photo: venczel_
Kara handbag. Photo: @kara
Ratio Et Motus handbag. Photo: @ratioetmotus
I also just came across a new London-based online destination called Future Present, which focuses on emerging designers from Asia and beyond. They have an amazing selection of bags for everyone.
So what will it take for us to get more men more comfortable with bags? “By wearing them", says Villanueva. “As someone who works in fashion and as someone who uses fashion, it's best to lead by example. It’s gonna take a while, but we all can do a little bit to normalise men in bags and at the same time, why not also men in makeup?”
Mcloughlin agrees. “Experiment! You’ll never know what you like to wear or feel comfortable wearing if you don’t try it. It’s important to break out of our comfort zones and push the boundaries. Like I said before: if you like it, wear it!”