Fashion / Society

This is how gender fluid models are making (historical) strides on the runway

By Mikko Puttonen

Photo: Dan Beleiu

Inclusion in the form of gender fluidity has become the new norm on the runway. SS23 womenswear fashion month has been a celebration of inclusion with the rise of more non-binary, trans and queer models

For some emerging brands, diversity and inclusion in their SS23 shows has been as much of a no-brainer as the buttons and zips on their thoughtful designs. New York-based Collina Strada with incredible casting for their NYFW show and London-based Sinead O’Dwyer who embraced body diversity at their London SS23 are just two stand-outs. But now bigger fashion houses are finally taking leaps into a more inclusive direction.

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Greek model Katy Grammatikopoulou who walked the Prada SS23 show just a few weeks ago stated on an Instagram post that it was the first time an Italian fashion house hired a trans model for their show. “After 109 years the most successful and famous fashion brand in Italy decided to include FOR THE FIRST TIME a transgender model in its show, proud of my community.”

I had a chat with two non-binary models, Argentina Tobias Dionisi and Mexican Magdaleno Delgado, on how they view inclusion at fashion weeks and in the industry as a whole. Even though inclusion is much more than a ‘trend’ for Milan-based Dionisi, it is a win to be visually out and being referred to as a trend.

“We’ve been removed from history for years and threatened for just our existence,” says Dionisi. “This trend is a wave of empowering people who are exposing themselves to show to the world that we exist, whether they like it or not.”

New York-based Delgado agrees. “For diverse communities, it is important to take over spaces and generate conversations. Fashion has enormous power in the vision and order of everything in the world and we all deserve to live with dignity.”

According to New York-based casting director Nicola Kast who was responsible for casting the Peter Do SS23 show, fashion and runway models are much more diverse now than they were four, or even five years ago.

“In New York and the US, we have a lot more non-binary models in magazines and on the runway,” says Kast. “I think it's important that non-binary models are not treated as tokens but as fashion models, no different than other models.” Kast believes that the landscape of casting has changed significantly in recent years. “It is so important, and we in the industry champion this and keep on moving it forward to be as inclusive as possible.”

Dionisi, who has walked GCDS, Ferragamo and Sansovino 6 this season, says it makes them happy to be able to express themselves on the runway. “It makes me proud to be part of a representation that I was looking for before becoming a model.” Delgado, who walked Peter Do, Collina Strada, Monse and Boss shows, says their experiences this season have also been positive.

“All the shows that I have done this season have been looks with a lot of a contemporary femininity; looks that would not usually be seen on the runway on someone like me. It helps me to know that I or people who feel different shouldn’t live in hiding,” they say.

For Delgado, to walk a show not pretending that they are someone or something they are not, is the most satisfying feeling. Dionisi agrees and recalls walking the GCDS show. “Giuliano [Calza, founder and creative director of GCDS] is such a kind, creative and passionate artist. I love working with a team that embraces the people that they work with.”

During Delgado’s modelling journey, they have had agencies who have supported them and they believe the whole fashion industry has to normalise the idea of having signed models in agencies working on boards minus the gender distinctions. Both Dionisi and Delgado have signed with Supa Model Management in the UK which has X Board, a space dedicated to a wide variety of genders and expressions. “With the help of our non-confirming models we will continue to push for their visibility within the industry,” reads the agency’s website.

Delgado thinks there are still casting directors who fall back on outdated ideas, but there are others who have been able to adapt, listen, and learn in order to have a better understanding of gender in all its forms. They hope that casting directors with sensitivity and fresh vision will have more power in the industry, and that models’ voices, expressions and values will hold as much importance as their perfect measurements. “This is something casting directors have in their hands and that is one big responsibility,” says Delgado.

Kast says diversity comes from both sides—her and the clients. She believes that most people in the industry know how important inclusiveness and diversity is in fashion, but is still noticing tokenism. Casting also takes place outside of fashion weeks of course, in campaigns and editorials. Kast is really excited to get into the new season of editorials and work after the shows. “I think it's going to be an important and beautiful casting season,” she says.

One fashion giant taking diversity and inclusion seriously is Zalando. Andreas Menelaou, head of Global Campaign Casting and Talent Partnerships says the topics are very close to his heart. “At Zalando, diversity and inclusion are part of our core values and customer promises – something we live by,” he says. “We aim to reflect and celebrate the diversity of our customers so they can see themselves in our projects.”

The industry wasn’t always like this of course, which is precisely what drives Menelaou. “When I was young there was such a lack of representation of marginalised communities in the media that even the smallest visibility was a glimpse of hope,” he says. “Now I’m working towards changing that in any way possible, big or small.”

Beyond the e-commerce site, Zalando Street, the company’s digital magazine was launched in November 2021 as a platform where communities could be championed. “We delve into local communities that are underrepresented or working with talented individuals that disrupt standards of beauty; this is really our DNA,” says Menelaou. “We are very aware of the impact we can have socially, and as a company, so we are making sure that when we reach the masses they get to see and hear the ones that, at any other point in time, would not have a voice. We are just the echo.”

And the future?

“The unfortunate reality is that there will always be barriers to entry for several people and communities because of unfortunate social constructs that have been imprinted in society for hundreds of years. I wish that we would just look at people for what they bring to the table, what they offer, and how good they are at what they do.”