Hundreds of miles from the reaches of phone reception, surrounded by glaciers and ice floes, on constant polar bear high-alert: Vogue Scandinavia team member Rebecka Thorén recounts the most unexpected encounters and experiences of her tour through the far-flung Arctic wilderness
Disclaimer: All photos were taken in line with local guidance with respect for wildlife and environmental surroundings.
To the uninitiated, mention of the ‘Arctic’ conjures up an image of endless white-out landscapes: a somewhat desolate and barren part of the world with an uninhabitable terrain and unbearable temperatures. This widespread perception, as Vogue Scandinavia team member Rebecka Thorén personally discovered, couldn’t be further from the truth.
Spending 10 days in Svalbard, a Norwegian archipelago between mainland Norway and the North Pole, Thorén discovered the raw beauty and diversity of the region, experiencing first-hand the many surreal and sensational elements that make up the Arctic world: majestic mountains, never-ending glaciers, otherworldly natural light and rich animal life.
As one of the world’s northernmost inhabited areas, Svalbard – which literally translates from Old Norse as “cold shores”, is a landmass that is entirely covered in permafrost all year round, with only a superficial top layer of the earth thawing during summer. Marking the northernmost tip of Europe, crowning the globe, polar bears, foxes and reindeer can be spotted on land while whales, seals and walruses inhabit the watery depths of the area.
Thorén, with a small group of other travellers, began her expedition in Longyearbyen, Svalbard’s capital with a population of just over 2,000 people. From there, she spent eight nights on a small ship out at sea, taking daily excursions (with help from Zodiac tender boats) to observe the surroundings from the decking or to hike across different islands.
From plunging into 2°C waters to spending over a week without phone reception, here, Thorén takes us through the five most unexpected and surprising aspects of her Arctic adventure:
The extreme diversity in the natural environment
"As we travelled from island to island in Svalbard, one of the most impressive things to see was how drastically nature would change and evolve. In same places, we were amongst sand and pebbles, elsewhere we would come across pink rocks and waterfalls.
"While a 10-day trip may sound like a long time to be in one area, it was impossible to tire of the surroundings because of these dramatic differences that we saw each day. My love for nature grew so much from witnessing this. It was truly fascinating and one of the key reasons that I want to return to Svalbard, perhaps to see even more of the changing nature."
A greater appreciation for polar bears
"The very first thing we were greeted with when exiting the airport at Longyearbyen was a warning sign for polar bears – which very accurately set the tone for the coming 10 days. In Svalbard, humans are just guests in the home of the polar bear. They are, of course, a threatened and highly protected species, but according to the Norwegian Polar Institute, the numbers of polar bears in Svalbard have been steadily growing in recent years.
"The presence of polar bears is always at front of mind when you're in Svalbard. Their footprints are dotted across the islands, and occasionally, traces of their recent kills. It is a requirement for the licensed guides carry a firearm for protection wherever you go, and our guides would always run ahead of us to check the coast was clear when we arrived at a new location. Another guide would always follow behind us to make sure there were no polar bear threads from the rear.
"We spotted many bears from the decking of our boat during our time in the archipelago, including groups of mothers and cubs, but we were sure to always sure to maintain the (soon to be increased) distance of 30 metres that is required for protection efforts.
"Seeing these majestic animals up close and learning more about their way of life definitely changed my perception. I have a greater love for polar bears now, not to mention extreme respect."
The adrenaline rush of a polar plunge
"When you equip yourself for time spent in the Arctic, with things like ski suits, beanies and thermals, the last thing you think about is actually submerging yourself in the freezing ocean waters. Safe to say, I didn't pack a swimsuit, but managed to find one in Longyearbyen as I summoned the courage for my first polar plunge.
"The water was a chilling 2°C. I was nervous, to say the least, compounded by the knowledge that there could be polar bears around during the plunge. Regardless, I put on the provided socks and hats, and was given a strap to wear around my waists to provide assistance in the case of a panic attack (luckily, the rescue strap wasn't required for any of us).
Photo: Rebecka Thorén
"I could never have imagined the intensity of the adrenaline rush afterwards. I dropped into the icy waters to my shoulders (my sister completely submerged herself) before dashing back up to the deck and jumping in a jacuzzi to heat up. I felt so awake, so energised. I was so happy I did it."
The enforced phone detox
"Through the nature of my work, and of course, just living in the 21st century, I am never without my phone. I knew in advance that there would be no mobile reception in Svalbard, so I had time to mentally prepare. But the first few days were hard: it's a hard-wired motion, almost like muscle memory, to pick up a phone and look at the screen. But after two or three days, the habits started to fade. I almost forgot that I had a phone.
Jacket and trousers, Helly Hansen. Beanie, Lund & Lund. Glasses, Oakley.
"This precious time without the constant stream of content and notifications was so valuable. It felt like a break from reality, a true recharge, and it definitely prompted me to spend my days focused on the present moment. For me, it was one of the best aspects of the trip.
"When we finally reached the realm of reception again, I decided to prolong turning my phone on for as long as possible. And ever since Svalbard, I have been much better at putting my phone away when I'm at home or with friends and family."
The discovery of Texas Bar
"During one of our hikes on the fifth day of the trip, we came across one of the most surprising things of all: Texas Bar. Housed in an old hunting hut in the middle of nowhere, it's the most norther bar in the world is completely unattended and unstaffed with an out-of-the-ordinary system of operating. Visitors from ships leave their liquor bottles in the hut, which are readily available to other passers-by to help themselves to.
"It was certainly surreal to find ourselves drinking shots of vodka in such a remote location where a polar bear could come by at any moment."