Whether practical kitten heels or towering platforms, here, Vogue Scandinavia's shoe and handbag expert Sandra Hagelstam explores the appeal of the heel
The allure of the high heel is a tale as old as time. One that comes with many side notes, can often feels outdated, occasionally sexist and questioned for its relevance in 2022. The need for a heel has declined (pun intended) as everything from women’s work uniforms to shoe etiquette has relaxed to the point where sneakers have superseded heels. The welcomed change comes in the name of equality, but also due to the impracticality and ergonomic issues that continue to fuel a love-hate relationship with high heels. Despite it all, the appeal of the heel is now back in demand, with sales soaring post pandemic.
The return of the platform proves that high heels still have a place in today’s world of savvy shoppers. With a rich history as a symbol of power (Napoleon Bonaparte wore sky high platforms, as did David Bowie), in 2022, platforms represent rebellious freedom and have become a wardrobe staple, not reserved solely for royals or rockstars. With platforms allowing for a higher heel and minimising the arch of the foot, they transform a towering 15cm heel into a wearable shoe. Often an inbuilt platform is often the secret to mastering heels, sky-high and grounded alike.
Shoes by D'accori. Photo: Sandra Hagelstam.
Shoes by D'accori. Photo: Sandra Hagelstam.
A high heel isn’t a shoe for everyone, one must truly volunteer to squeeze into the narrow edges of a dainty heel, whether that is a skinny stiletto to platform structure. ‘’High heeled shoes will never be optimal from an orthopaedic perspective,’’ says Peter Hedström, orthopaedic technician and CEO of Stinaa J. ‘’However, there is much that can be done to adjust the comfort’’, Peter continues. The Swedish shoe brand aims to revolutionise the high heel industry by bringing orthopaedic knowledge into the style-led shoe market.
But what is the ideal heel height? As a shoe expert, this is a hot topic that I get asked about frequently but unfortunately there is no ‘one size fit all’ answer. While there are many theories determining the optimal heel height, the solution doesn’t necessarily lie in innovative insoles (although it helps), but more with the shape of your foot. Some people have a more flexible ankle, allowing for a steeper arch, while others simply feel more comfortable in a lower heel. Deciding on the optimal heel height isn’t easy for designers either, which explains why some offer their best sellers in various heel heights. Manolo Blahnik’s iconic ‘Hangisi’ pumps come in a staggering seven different heel heights and have deservingly earned their spot as a popular wedding shoe.
Shoes by D'accori. Photo: Sandra Hagelstam.
Shoes by D'accori. Photo: Sandra Hagelstam.
“A heel of more than 7.5 centimetres increases the pressure on the ball of the foot by up to 76 per cent." States Hedström. “But even a lower heel of 2.5 centimetres adds pressure of up to 22 per cent”, he explains. The most wearable heel height is usually between 3-7centimetres and anything above is often considered a high heel. Striving to design shoes that allow the foot and toes to relax is the secret to comfort and relieving the pressure of the arched foot is a business of its own, with many designers tackling with their own unique innovations. Sania D’mina designs her shoes with a toe box that sits flat on the ground, while Bottega Veneta introduced cashmere padded insoles to their heels in 2019. US based shoe designer Tamara Mellon has a wide knowledge of high heeled party shoes as the original co-founder of Jimmy Choo. Coming out of the pandemic, the designer felt the need to add comfort to her heels, leading her to launch ‘Pillow Top’ - a line of pumps and sandals made with 8 milimetres of memory foam cushioning on the sole.
From a ‘the bigger the better’ mentality, I’ve grown to love heels of all sizes, simply because different shoes require different heel heights. While a Saint Laurent cigarette heel is always best served high, Dior’s 2017 launch of the J'Adior kitten heels finally turned me into a lover of the elegant smaller heel that lets you wear the shoe around the clock, if needed. Prada and Louis Vuitton make some of the best kitten heels to date, although the feeling of stepping into a towering pair of 10cm heels remains unrivalled. Add 5cm to that and you’ll start understanding the royal rockstar appeal that often echoed ‘the higher the heel, the closer to heaven'.