Fashion / Society

How to style a tuxedo jacket in 3 gender-fluid ways

By Mikko Puttonen
Mikko_TUXEDO

Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

The tuxedo jacket is no doubt one of the most iconic fashion pieces of all time – here's how to style it

There are different theories as to how the tuxedo jacket – one of the most lauded garments in the fashion world – originated, but the most common story recalls that the very first tux jacket was designed by Henry Poole & Co for Prince Albert Edward (who later became King Edward VII), as a more casual option to a tailcoat. When American billionaire and guest of the Royal Family, James Brown Potter saw the Prince of Wales in his smart tailless jacket, he visited the prince’s Saville Row tailor and asked for a replica. The new jacket style quickly gained popularity in gentleman’s wardrobes and Brown Potter christened it the tuxedo after Tuxedo Park in New York.

Advertisement

For a long time, the tuxedo jacket and suit were for men to wear exclusively; the women’s fashion revolution and fight for equality changed this, and led to the tuxedo jacket being acceptable for everyone to wear.

Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

For me, a tuxedo jacket embodies timeless sophistication which has nothing to do with gender. In fact, a little femme fatale suit is among my favourite looks: think Mugler by Thierry Mugler or Marlene Dietrich.

If I have to choose one, my all-time favorite tuxedo jacket is by the New York-based brand Peter Do from the autumn/winter 2020 collection. The snatched silhouette and sharp shoulders don’t just lift my posture but also alters my whole appearance, confidence, and mood.

Here, I style the tuxedo jacket in three different, gender-fluid ways.

Shepherd from Space

Mikko tuxedo

Peter Do Tuxedo blazer stylist own. Glove sweater, €1010, and boots, €1254, both Peter Do. Sheer shirt, €991, Nensi Dojaka. Jeans, €490, Maison Margiela. Hat, € 290, The Attico. Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Mikko Tuxedo

Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Mikko Tuxedo

Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

I don’t really believe in under or overdressing. I dress up simply based on my mood at the time and have fun with it. This look is something I would wear to any occasion – grocery shopping, fashion week and everything in-between. I styled the tuxedo jacket with a western-inspired hat, denim, high heel boots, and a sheer top layered with a woollen sweater with attachable gloves.

Layered suit

Peter Do Tuxedo blazer stylist own. Spacer top, €275, Peter Do. Skirt, €525, Dion Lee. Egonlab trousers stylist own. Jiij shoes stylist own. . Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Mikko Tuxedo

Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Mikko tuxedo

Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

I love layers and I love suits – there’s nothing better than both together. I have seen a lot of variations of a suit with a skirt and I’m here for it. I spiced up my suit with a graphic skirt by Dion Lee, giving a classic tailored look a twist and a different silhouette – a perfect New Year's Eve look. My footwear choice is a Mary Jane loafer made of apple leather by inclusive shoe brand JiiJ.

Modern school uniform

Mikko tuxedo

Peter Do Tuxedo blazer stylist own. Knitted vest, €690, Maison Margiela. Shorts, €597, Valentino. Lemaire belt stylist own. Bag, €590, Paco Rabanne. Shoes, €1390, Maison Margiela. Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Mikko_TUXEDO

Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

Mikko tuxedo

Photo: Lucas Ruska Martin

I know it is freezing cold right now, especially in Scandinavia, but you can’t go wrong with a tuxedo and shorts pairing, especially if you add chunky boots. For a little festive touch (and to avoid hypothermia), I added a colorful knitted vest by Maison Margiela and a knitted Paco Rabanne bag which doesn’t necessarily keep me warm but looks cute. I finished the look with the double collared shirt by Valentino to bring some (extra) drama to my family’s Christmas dinner.