Culture / Society

How to holiday in the south of Italy, according to creative director Maj-La Pizzelli

By Eliza Sörman Nilsson
ATP Atelier

Photo: ATP Atelier

Come summer, ATP Atelier creative director Maj-La Pizzelli can be found in Puglia, Salento, where she has a home. Here, she shares just where to eat, shop and swim in this delectable part of the world

“I’ve had a huge crush on Salento since we started going here in 2005,” says ATP Atelier co-founder Maj-La Pizzelli of the Italian town she now considers her second home. “We always dreamt of having a place of our own and when this opportunity came we couldn’t say no.”

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Pizzelli and her husband actually purchased two townhouses and renovated the places, turning them into one big house. “It’s in the most picturesque little town and the heritage of the house is just stunning with original floors and al fresco ceilings,” she adds.

When spending sun-drenched days here, Pizzelli’s go-to is a flowy kaftan with her label’s sandals, “especially Rosa”. Adding, “I’ll pair that with a smaller bag or a clutch. I’ve noticed how I gravitate towards more petit bags during this time of year.”

Days are spent swimming, reading in the garden, “surrounded by the pomegranate and orange trees,” and attending the antique markets on Sundays. Pizzelli spends more time cooking when here, saying: “We basically live off vegetables and fish... There are seasonal and local produce here that can’t be found at home, like cicoria for example.”

If this idyllic description already has you booking a ticket, here is Pizzelli's insider guide to where to go:

ATPAtelier

Photo: ATP Atelier

ATP Atelier

Photo: ATP Atelier

Where to eat in Puglia, Salento

The food here is amazing. Italian cuisine is extraordinarily regional and Osteria del Spiriti in Lecce offers a literal taste of Salento. Situated near the town’s public gardens, this trattoria with high ceilings is typical of an old masseria (a farmhouse).

This is my go-to place for fish and it’s located right in the heart of the historic centre of Lecce. Alessandra Civilla is the head chef, and her cooking is synonymous with family and her way of living which really shines through.

Run by iconic It-couple Floriano Pellegrino and Isabella Potí, Bros Trattoria is a unique dining experience where you eat in a beautifully kept garden, planted with olive trees and embellished with subtle lighting, wooden tables and straw-seated chairs.

ATP Atelier

Photo: ATP Atelier

ATP Atelier

Photo: ATP Atelier

Where to stay in Puglia, Salento

This is a modern farmhouse with views over Ostuni and the sea, set in five hectares of organic olive fields. Masseria Moroseta really is the epitome of relaxation and rural simplicity. The aesthetic is very modern for Puglia, it’s traditional Italian with influences from Scandinavian minimalism. They bring people together around food and organise community dinners where all guests eat together.

Built in 1861 by local famous architect Domenico Malinconico, Palazzo Daniele is steeped in Italian history. The palazzo was renovated and restored by Milanese design duo Ludovica and Roberto Palomba. Today, Palazzo Daniele is a treat for all senses, focusing on design, architecture, and (of course) food. The nine suites feature frescoed ceilings and original floors combined with modern design.

This is where my husband and I stayed when we were still renovating our house, and we loved it. Palazzo Siena is warm and personal but highly curated and inspiring. But what makes you fall in love with Palazzo Siena is its owner Gilda Siena and her amazing family.

ATP Atelier

Photo: ATP Atelier

How to spend the days in Puglia, Salento

The food market is one of my happy places when I’m in Italy. There’s a really great one in the old centre of Poggiardo but every little town has one. This is where I shop all of my fresh produce but is also a place where I go to get inspired by the people, the colours and the vibe.

The architecture in Lecce is amazing. It’s a baroque gem and is certainly the best expression of this architectural style in all of Italy. So, if that’s something that you appreciate there are so many great sights to see just walking around Lecce.

The city of Grottaglie is a ceramic lover’s dream in Puglia and definitely worth a visit. The dishes typical of the town’s ceramics are very much focused on kitchen utensils and everyday objects, simple but so beautiful. They are created to fit a very family-oriented way of eating together. Some of my favourite pieces are communal serving bowls where pasta for the entire family will fit.

ATP Atelier

Photo: ATP Atelier

How to spend the nights in Puglia, Salento

Farmacia Balboa is one of my favourite bars in Tricase. It’s an old pharmacy (hence the name) turned bar. Their philosophy is all about using local ingredients and the finest organic products from selected farmers. I come here for the drinks but also for the atmosphere.

The Gallipoli sunset is unbeatable, it’s such a perfect way to end the day, overlooking the ocean. Walking along the beach you’ll pass a variety of different artisans. We actually met a man here, crafting wooden fish traps – they were so beautiful we bought a few and repurposed them as lampshades for our kitchen.

The port of Otranto gets busy at night. There is a myriad of restaurants and bars to choose from and explore. The historic port of Otranto has been used since Ancient times so this too is a sight to see.

ATP Atelier

Photo: ATP Atelier

Secret swim spot

Porto Badisco – which is seven minutes from our house and it’s been our favourite spot since we started going here eight years ago.

Must-go destination

I really recommend the antique markets on Sundays. The one in Lecce is the last of every month but there’s one in different parts of Puglia every single week. It’s a great place to find furniture or other unique objects.

ATP Atelier

Photo: ATP Atelier

ATP Atelier

Photo: ATP Atelier