Apart from the fashion, what we love most about Emily in Paris is the hair. Behind the scenes of our recent cover shoot, Lily Collins' hair stylist Mike Desir told Vogue Scandinavia exactly how to recreate her signature curls and Season 3's highlight: the '60s high ponytail
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Emily In Paris became a cultural phenomenon back in 2020 when season 1 aired and served up exactly the feel-good vibes we'd been starved of during the pandemic. Season 2 and 3 have had us in a similar chokehold – we relished the escapism of Saint Tropez, Paris' chicest hotspots and French country chateaus; we dined out on every one of Sylvie's eye rolls and lusted after the designer wardrobes of PR girl Emily Cooper (played by Lily Collins) and her friends Camille and Mindy.
But it's the hair styles that have inspired us most – and there really is something for everyone. While Camille and Sylvie are the textbook example of French nonchalance with their un-done bedhead hair, Emily is the picture of salon-worthy styling.
"Emily has a very clear personality," says Emily in Paris hairstylist, Mike Desir. "She knows what she wants, is a fighter and very thoughtful, sparkling, passionate, determined, so fashion is assumed. Her hairstyle must reflect her character. But in season 3, Emily learns the culture of France, she becomes more Parisian, we also feel it in the clothes. So the waves are more relaxed and more textured."
Floral blazer, €350, Sequined floral shirt, €400, Floral shorts, €110. All Stine Goya. Platinum ‘Raisins’ ring, set with vivid blue chalcedonies, light blue chalcedonies, and brilliant-cut diamonds, price upon request. Cartier. Diamond ring, worn on left hand. Talent’s own. . Photo: Petra Kleis
Speaking of those S-shape waves, Desir recommends first creating a good base for "building texture with some hold". Living Proof’s Full Thickening Mousse is always in his kit. "Apply to your hair while it's still damp and finger-dry, preferably with a Dyson Airwrap, as it adds shine and reduces frizz," he explains.
Next, section your hair. "Since Emily's waves are on the tighter end of the spectrum, go for smaller sections [of hair] to mimic her look," Desir notes. A good rule of thumb is to remember that "if you take small sections of hair, you'll get tighter waves, and if you take thicker sections, then your waves will be looser," he adds.
Rather than rollers, Desir used a curling iron for the waves themselves (his wand of choice is the Bio Ionic Long Curling Iron), wrapping each section for 10 seconds before moving on to the next.
"Start at the back of the head with your iron held horizontally for more defined waves," Desir continues. "Then position the tool vertically once you reach the sides and front. Also, twirl each section of hair before wrapping it around the iron's barrel so it comes out more wavy than curly." Brush through once with a wide-toothed comb and set with hairspray. "Et voila!"
Photo: Marie Etchegoyen/Netflix
Season 3, however, is undeniably about hair acccessories. In fact, according to Desir, in these 10 episodes, Emily has no fewer than 18 different updos created using simple attachments such as buns, scarves, ribbons, a silk scrunchie from Dariia Day, "the most precious stone hair accessory from Tomas Bijoux" or a burgundy headband from Alexandre de Paris.
For the high ponytail that set our pulses racing at the Maison Lavaux and McLaren dinner, where Emily wears a flouncy jacket from Iris Apfel x H&M, Desir looked to the '60s for inspiration. "This outfit was graphic, so to embellish this look, I had to free up Emily's beautiful neck with a long wavy ponytail, give her a little volume on top of her head and leave a loose fringe to bring some freshness to the hairstyle. The little loose strands of hair keep a balance with the provincial atmosphere of the South of France."
To create this look, Desir first created a half up, half down ponytail, concentrating the volume on her crown, before scooping the hair up in a second elastic for a fuller-looking ponytail. "I sectioned the ponytail hair and used a medium-sized curling iron to give the waves volume," Desir says. "Then I added the Living Proof Full Dry Volume and Texture Spray. I finished the look with a satin ribbon for that '60s touch."
And the new fringe, which has stolen the limelight this season? Desir says it reflects Emily's new life stage: "change of job, change of relationship, self evolution. With all the trials and tribulations, Emily Cooper needed a change. We had to evolve the hairstyle, so Emily's bangs are inspired by many French icons like Jane Birkin."