On the occasion of Lois Jeans’ regional runway debut in Oslo, Vogue Scandinavia speaks to the creative director of the Spanish-born brand – loved by Scandi greats such as ABBA and Björn Borg – about its Nordic return
Lois Jeans may not have been conceived in the Nordics, but it certainly came to life in the region. Founded in Valencia in 1962 by brothers Manuel and Joaquin Sáez, just over a decade later the brand did a deal with an up-and-coming Swedish pop group to wear their denim. That pop group went by the name of ABBA, and just one day later, Agnetha, Björn, Benny and Anni-Frid won Eurovision 1974 with 'Waterloo'. ABBA mania was born – and Lois Jeans was very much along for the ride.
A series of fashionable affairs followed. Fashion icons of the 1970s including Diana Ross, Bianca Jagger, Jane Birkin and Brigitte Bardot were often seen dressed in a pair, as was Nordic sporting legend Björn Borg. Very quickly, the brand became a tangible representation of the liberal, audacious spirit of the era.
Together with its celebrity fans, Lois gave jeans a new-found sexiness. In the 1960s, denim was typically functional and worn with a loose, understated fit. The Sáez brothers came up with new cuts that threaded together sexiness and comfort, helping to introduce slim-fit jeans.
As denim became big business, Lois Jeans lost some of their luster, eventually going bankrupt in the 1990s. But in 2014, former Diesel and Tommy Hilfiger creative director Arthur Van Rongen announced that he had invested into the brand, becoming co-owner alongside the Sáez Merino family. Suddenly, Lois was back from the dead.
Photo: Lois Jeans.
Photo: Lois Jeans.
Photo: Lois Jeans.
Making their Nordic comeback, Lois Jeans opened the doors to its first Scandinavian store in Oslo in the summer of 2022. The brand returned to the Norwegian capital for their runway debut in the region: showing their FW23 collection at the Opera House of Oslo on January 10. By presenting the collection weeks before Copenhagen Fashion Week in a different Nordic capital, Lois Jeans made an “unexpected move, like the brand has always done throughout its 60 years of heritage”, Van Rongen explains.
Against the chime and timbre of 'Boléro', a classical composition by French composer Maurice Ravel, guests sat in the low lit opera house for a show that mixed dance, fashion and art. “It felt like a fun risk for us as a denim brand to incorporate classical art forms such as ballet and orchestral music in a fashion show,” says Van Rongen. “My parents used to play a lot of classical music and I loved the 'Bolero'. When I was on the phone to my mum last week and I told her about the show, she reminded me that I used to play this song all the time when I was 11 so the story feels even more special to me.”
Ballet dancers joined the models on the runway to present 50 looks where new designs were styled with archival pieces. There was a stylistic blend of what Lois dubs ‘groovy chic’ and ‘preppy chic’, balancing light and historically glamorous details with rodeo influences and rebellious silhouettes. With Van Rongen as creative director, the designers have conjured a collection that is timeless and functional yet simultaneously fashion forward.
Photo: Lois Jeans.
Photo: Lois Jeans.
Photo: Lois Jeans.
“I think the aesthetic that we use as a jeans brand is somewhat different,” says Van Rongen of the new collection. “We have tried to make it a little bit more minimalistic while also adding a lot of colours in a contemporary way with a high-end approach and an affordable price tag.”
Key players from the Nordic creative community have since given Lois Jeans the Scandi stamp of approval once again, half a century on from ABBA and Björn Borg. “In Scandinavia we wear a lot of denim and outerwear during all seasons, even during summer, because we're used to having shorter and colder summer periods than the rest of Europe. In that way, Lois seems to be very synergetic with the Scandic minimalism and lifestyle,” says content creator Ilirida Krasniqi. She's been wearing Lois denim for almost two years and says that she appreciates that “they are classic, timeless and most importantly comfortable. Denim can be quite uncomfortable but Lois seems to be mastering comfortability.”
Photo: Lois Jeans.
Photo: Lois Jeans.
Photo: Lois Jeans.
When reflecting on the brand’s Nordic comeback, Swedish music producer and composer Joel Gunnarsson says he is drawn to “the respect for art and music the brand has in their DNA. It’s not only inspired by it but strives to lift and shine a spotlight on the work and the artists behind a collection. And as someone who 90 per cent of the time works behind the scenes, this made me incredibly happy.” And while the brand may have been born in Valencia, Gunnarsson believes it's still the perfect fit for the Nordics.
Model and poet Charlotte Manning is another fan. “The brand has stuck to its roots through many cultural shifts and generations, yet it also continues to re-invent itself, grow its audience and feel like something special for the younger generations to enjoy," she says.