Honing in on hips: Why Rococore should be the latest addition to your fashion dictionary

This is not your great, great grandmother’s crinoline. Exposed cages and whimsical hoop skirts stage an unexpected comeback, made modern with a humble T-shirt or hint of exposed midriff

In 1985, Vivienne Westwood (almost) single-handedly revived the renaissance when she launched the 'Mini-Crini' – reintroducing the masses to wide-slung boned underskirts. A fiend of historic dress, Westwood’s subversive design style saw archival ensembles turned on their heads – underwear became outerwear, and alongside the crinoline the corset crept steadily to the top of any sartorial savant’s shopping list.

Westwood paved the way for other devotees to design of yore; the crinoline allowed tone-setting tastemakers like John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Alexander McQueen to experiment with extreme volume. Raf Simons referenced the pannier in his bloom-from-the-waist dresses on the autumn/winter 2014 Christian Dior couture runway. And it comes as no surprise: if we’re talking about Dior, the silhouette is always major. it experienced a resurgence in 1948 thanks to Dior’s New Look (this time sans metal hoops).

More recently, Dior continued its legacy of wide-slung hip-huggers as Maria Grazia Chiuri layered delicate lace over protruding cage-skirts for the French Maison’s spring/summer 2023 runway show. Lanvin and Loewe plucked panniers from obscurity, while Acne Studios found inspiration in the boned, tiered Elizabethan predecessors to hoop skirts.

So be they farthingales, bustles, panniers or crinolines, we’re filling our closet’s with statement-making, space-claiming, hip-enhancing silhouettes, having us shift side-ways through slim doorways this season.

Knitted sweater with faux fur sleeves, €240. Maison Cléo. Organza and tulle skirt, price upon request. Giambattista Valli. Earrings, €120. Rigido. Denim shirt, €730. Botter. Bell shaped linen dress, price upon request. Jacquemus. Pumps in foam, price upon request. Loewe. Photo: Luna Harst

Crepon pleated short print dress, €9,500. Lanvin. Multi cargo jeans, €500. Victoria Tomas. Heart shaped gold necklace, €990. Dinh Van. Photo: Luna Harst

Puffer bomber jacket, €1,500. Meïloumi. Textured skirt dress, price upon request. Cecilie Bahnsen. Silver earrings, €150. Justine Clenquet. Photo: Luna Harst

Dress with tulle details, price upon request. Acne Studios. Upcycled denim belt, price upon request. Maison Davide Bazzerla. Gold flower detailed necklace, price upon request. Mifig. Denim mules, €450. Coperni. Photo: Luna Harst

Knitted sweater with faux fur sleeves, €240. Maison Cléo. Organza and tulle skirt, price upon request. Giambattista Valli. Earrings, €120. Rigido. Photo: Luna Harst

T-shirt, €50. Xuly Bet. Bell shaped skirt in jacquard. €980. Sportmax. Pear earring with crystals, €300. Vann. Photo: Luna Harst

Sequins embroidered top, price upon request. Koche. Tulle skirt, €375. Frolov. 24k rose gold earrings with purple gemstones, €900. Begüm Khan. Heels, price upon request. A.w.a.k.e Mode. Photo: Luna Harst

Knitted crop top, €190. Easter Manas. Full skirt, price upon request. Le Vestiaire. Gold earrings, price upon request. Jacquemus. Photo: Luna Harst

Sheer underwire top, €440. Christopher Esber. Crinoline skirt, price upon request. Rochas. Pearl earrings with crystals, €300. Vann. 925 sterling silver ring with luminous stones, €205. Transe Paris. Sandals, €805. Undercover. Photo: Luna Harst

Cargo vest, €489. Spencer Badu. Organza cloque dress, €2,345. Erdem. Earrings, €120. Rigido. Pointy boots, €1,950. Rochas. Photo: Luna Harst

Cut-out top with silver details, €400. Christopher Esber. Full skirt, price upon request. Le Vestiaire. Heels, €690. A.w.a.k.e. Mode. Photo: Luna Harst

From left to right: T-shirt, €160. Botter. Skirt, €650. Renaissance Renaissance. Handcrafted chain necklace, €150. Justine Clenquet. Knitted cardigan, €450, Knitted skirt, €450. Both ERL. Earrings, €135. Moira Yongei. Photo: Luna Harst

Photographer: Luna Harst
Stylist: Emmanuelle Ramos
Makeup Artist: Ruby Mazuel
Hair Stylist: Marion Année
Models: Maddux, Anna Lira
Photographer Assistant: Octave Pineau Furet
Stylist Assistant: Jules Allegret
Casting: Ikki Casting
Production Manager: Philippe Bustarret
Production: Artsphere

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