“A safe space to be queer”: A spotlight on 3 talents from Helsinki's trailblazing queer community

It’s been a couple of gloomy weeks in Helsinki but today, as if on cue, the sun has graced us with its presence, bathing the studio in a soft, natural glow as Beyoncé’s Renaissance pumps through the speakers. It’s a perfect setting for the shoot for this story, which highlights three queer Finnish talents, all carving out creative paths of their own while sharing a strong bond of friendship.

“The concept [for this shoot] came from feeling safe in your personality and in your body, and showing a very intimate and even a vulnerable self to people,” says photographer Angelina Ilmast, who captures artist Angel Emmanuel, stylist Aino Collin and fashion designer Mert Otsamo. “I was also thinking about the queer community in Helsinki, which is absolutely fascinating and inspiring.”

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Having moved to Finland from Uganda 12 years ago, Angel Emmanuel, 25, feels like she has “found my chosen family [here]”, proclaiming Finland as “a safe space to be queer”. “But there is still some work to do when it comes to trans rights,” she adds. Having started out as a costume designer, Angel Emmanuel later branched into fashion, releasing her very first collection last year. She describes her upcycled pieces, one of which she’s donning on these pages, as “thrift flip early Mugler in the sense that I like dressing people who want to feel confident in their body.” Transitioning from designer to muse, Angel Emmanuel has also posed and walked for the likes of Rick Owens, Balenciaga and Latimmier. When she isn’t working, she’s snapping up top prizes within Helsinki’s thriving Ballroom scene.

Much like Angel Emmanuel, Collin, 25, is a familiar face at Helsinki’s various fashion and queer events. You might even catch her playing tunes there; in addition to styling, Collin works as a DJ. Her DJ duo, Lonely Hearts Club, has even played Ruisrock, one of the country’s biggest festivals. “It’s so welcoming – you don’t have to pretend or explain yourself to anyone,” she says of Helsinki’s queer community. “Everyone roots for each other and there’s this really uplifting atmosphere.”

After assisting stylist Liisa Kokko for the “kind of iconic”, now-defunct Gloria Fashion Show, Collin landed her first solo styling gig dressing Finnish podcaster Hanna Tikander. Since then, the opportunities – both within styling and DJing have flowed organically. “I’ve never really properly advertised my work,” Collin says. “I’ve realised that if you feel like there’s this thing missing from your life, you should just do it.”

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Meanwhile, over his decade-plus career, Otsamo, 33, has cemented his place as one of Finland’s most celebrated fashion designers. Having gotten his start as a finalist in the Finnish version of Project Runway in 2009, his signature sculptural creations, finessed with immaculate tailoring, often adorn the country’s biggest artists and the red carpets of the glitziest galas. “My mum was an actor, so I grew up in theatre dressing rooms, and playing with different materials and textures has inspired me since a young age,” he says. “What fascinates me right now is exploring contrasts and through that understanding clarity.” He hints towards a “new era for me soon”. “I’ve been thinking about how I want to dress and how I’d like to dress my friends, and that leans more towards an ironic, tongue-in-cheek approach and darker shades,” he says.

For these three, being featured in Vogue Scandinavia marks a pivotal moment both in their own creative journeys and as friends. “It’s so cool to do this with this group,” Collin says. “I’m so thrilled,” Otsamo chimes in. “We’re not three separate characters, and it feels like the direction we’ve been going towards has been right.”