Helsinki's emerging fashion talents share their favourite Finnish things to do

There’s something in the famously pure Finnish water. A fresh crop of Finnish designers are putting Helsinki on the map. Inspired by the artisanal traditions of their region, the distinctive and abundant countryside and even the country’s self-described melancholy, the new Finnish aesthetic is functional, crafty and far from ordinary.

At this year's Fashion in Helsinki, fashion folk from far and wide came to see what all the Finnish fuss is about. The two-day programme culminated in a fashion show showcasing the country’s rising stars, some of whom have already shown outside the region (perhaps most notably Latimmier, who made a big splash at Pitti Uomo last season).

Below, we get to know the crop of designers showing at Fashion in Helsinki and ask for their pro tips on what sights, activities and wine bars are not to be missed when visiting their hometown.

Related: Ervin Latimer's debut show at Pitti Uomo was no drag

Swedish-speaking Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth sums his practice up simply: “Utilitarianism, nostalgia and sustainably-produced clothes.” Think sturdy, function-forward trousers, relaxed outerwear and the sort of shell-dressing that will stand up in a storm. “The themes for my collections are built upon observations from my youth in Finland as a Swedish speaking Finn,” he says, adding that there’s “some melancholy” from his Finnish side, tempered with “a twist of humour and happiness” from the Swedish side.

Helsinki must-dos

“Take a bike ride along Vantaanjoki to Central Park. The Vantaa river part of the trip is really beautiful and Central Park has some really quiet and peaceful forests. Then go for a bike ride, a walk, canoeing or swimming at Kallahti. There's a really nice beach surrounded by some pine trees, it's super nostalgic for me as it reminds me of summer camp and summer holidays in my childhood and teens.”

Redefining – or perhaps deconstructing – the notion of gendered dressing, Latimmier was born of a reaction to certain Finnish values. “Finland has a great history when it comes to gender equality between cisgender men and women, however, we haven't been so progressive when it comes to the equality and equity of people of marginalised gender identities,” says founder Ervin Latimer. He notes specifically the country’s notably discriminatory legislation towards transgender people. Latimmier aims to broaden traditional views of masculinity. An inclusive aesthetic utopia that welcomes all takers.

Functionally, this manifests in “a seductive yet pragmatic re-interpretation of traditional western menswear pieces.” Billowy suits that slit at the ankle, oversized shirts with dangling cuffs. “Latimmier's vision is to expand the notion of masculinity and further redefine how we approach gender in everyday life,” Latimer says. “I think there are some very equitable values that at their core are very Finnish, even if we as a country aren't quite there yet.”

Helsinki must-dos

“First, you need food. We have amazing restaurants that often come with justified, yet high prices. If you want to wine and dine but not spend a fortune, try Harju8 in the Kallio burrough. It's a casually cool bistro with easy food and natural wines.

Secondly, you need art. You can enjoy many architectural wonders for free, but you should definitely check the Amos Rex museum and the neighbouring Kiasma museum of modern art. 

Lastly, Helsinki is a city that has a lot of nature – go see it! The historical islands of Seurasaari or Suomenlinna in the centre are fab. If it's a hot weather, grab some ice cream, we eat it more than any other European country. If you have a car or can handle a little bus adventure, there are short drives to big national parks in Nuuksio in the west and Sipoonkorpi in the east.”

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Born of a pandemic-spurred move back home, By Hinders is a minimal celebration of Finnish craft. Founder Jonathan Ingberg found inspiration in his parent’s farm, Hinders Gård – specifically, “the daily routines of taking care of the soil and animals.” “Running a farm means cultivating longevity so that the land is fertile for crops for years to come,” he says. The utilitarian garments with smart details – shirts that tie around the waist, linen pants that button at the knee – are made in collaboration with local artisans and creatives. Ingberg’s second collection, presented at Fashion in Helsinki, is inspired by the wardrobe staples of 1950s Finland, namely “camp collar shirts with grosgrain appliqués, knitwear twin sets and casual outerwear.”

Helsinki must-dos

“Start your day at Café Torpanranta and whilst there, visit the nearby Alvar Aalto house. Then head over for lunch at Ateljé Finne, after which I’d suggest you head to see Jani Ruscica’s works exhibited at Kunsthalle Helsinki. Finally, I recommend browsing through the fantastic wine selections from letme.fi. Grab a fabulous bottle from their offerings and head over to watch the sunset from the cliffs near Lapinlahdenpolku 8.”

Ask Hedvig founders Sofia Järnefelt and Taru Lahti to describe their brand’s DNA and they’ll come back with a quote once gifted to them by an unnamed someone else: “Hedvig’s idiom exhumes a mystical, seductive connection to the past while pursuing refreshing curiosity towards the future.” A notably more romantic view of Finnish design than the other brands presented at Fashion in Helsinki, Hedvig balances “abundant luxury” and a “pruned aesthetic.” Sleeves explode with dainty ruffles, asymmetric silk hemlines ripple like water. One can practically hear the Finnish nature as the clothes glide on by.

Helsinki must-dos

“Well, if you ask Hedvig, we would recommend a guided tour at the old observatory, which is now open for public. The stories of the astronomy professors’ families that used to live there are quite fascinating and very closely related to our brand. Also, as Helsinki is surrounded by so much nature one should take a boat to one of the islands outside the city, enjoy sauna and a beer and take a dip in the sea no matter how cold the water.”

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Sofia Ilmonen lives in a square universe, literally. The designer’s namesake brand is constructed entirely from squares, folded and gathered to create silhouettes that drape and ruffle. "The building blocks of the garment stay the same, but the form can be different with just a move of a button,” says Ilmonen. While she admits her generous volumes and more-is-more detailing don’t exactly read Finnish, “the bright, optimistic, playful colours are something that Finns are not afraid off.” Feminine and optimistic, Imonen’s garments are perhaps a reflection of the endless light of Helsinki’s summers. “These dresses takes the weight off your shoulders and makes you want to swirl the night away,” she says.

Helsinki must-dos

“As Helsinki is a coastal city there are loads of places to enjoy the Baltic Sea. I especially love the small island called Mustikkamaa where there’s a beach but it is also a great place to jog around and dip into the sea afterwards. Another must do thing is to visit Suomenlinna. It’s a short ferry ride away and cost the same as the standard public transport ticket. You can stroll around and see the historical scenery, have a picnic or stop for a coffee in the small cute cafes. Helsinki also has great second hand and vintage shops such as UFF and Relove. I would definitely recommend to go bargain hunting!”