At a spectacular exhibition in the French capital, Swiss Maison Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates the 90th anniversary of the illustrious Reverso, a watch inspired by Art Deco and polo matches of yesteryear
Many watch brands offer a rich history that is 90 or more years old. But only one watch can tell a story of a reversing case design inspired by the noble sport of polo. And that watch is the illustrious Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.
When Swiss businessman César de Trey – originally a dentures supplier – told this friend Jacques-David LeCoultre about the noble game of polo freshly returned from a trip to India in 1930, he also spoke of the wild balls that would break any fragile objects during the challenging and demanding sport. A sport that often found the glass of wristwatches worn by the sportsmen as the losers after a game of “hockey on horseback”.
When the Reverso watch with its distinct Art Deco-inspired ‘gadroon’ lines on the case was patented within a few weeks by industrial designer René-Alfred Chauvot – who was employed by Jaeger – as a watch “able to pivot on itself by sliding into its support” in Paris on March 4 1931, LeCoultre and Jaeger had unknowingly initiated the creation of a watch still unrivalled and forever celebrated for its reversing design.
The Heritage Reverso in red.
The Heritage Reverso SAC.
Conceived on the fields of British colonies in India and created in the ateliers of Jaeger and LeCoultre (known since 1937 as Jaeger-LeCoultre), the Reverso was born. A watch more “Belle Èpoque than Art Deco”, according to historian, author of the book on Reverso and horological specialist Nickolas Foulkes, the Reverso is a timepiece that can fit multiple wrists due to its elegant size and discreet appearance.
At the Paris exhibition 'Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931', a women’s Reverso from 1931 is showcased next to the gentlemen’s version. It offers a 45 degree angled dial design and a simple leather strap that was meant to be strapped onto a handbag, proving that the Reverso was also seen as a fashion accessory in the early days of the innovative design.
During the opening of the four-floor exhibition on 15 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, I met with the brand’s CEO, Catherine Rénier, who took over the helm of the “Grande Maison of the Vallée de Joux” in 2018. I asked Mrs Rénier who, in her view, are the Reverso’s most important target consumers.
“The Reverso was since the very beginning a watch for men and women," she told me. "It became a fashion statement. Today, the collection is a very balanced share between Reversos for him and her, which underlines that Jaeger-LeCoultre first and foremost is a movement maker, not necessarily thinking in genders. We create movements for the needs of the end consumers. Even if the Reverso started out as a sports watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre soon realised that you didn’t have to be a polo player to wear the watch."
Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO, Catherine Rénier.
The Reverso One Cordonnet.
A Reverso is not only a watch that “pivots on itself by sliding into its support”. It is also a watch with a blank rear that reflects the métiers d’art craftsmanship performed in the “Atelier d’Antoine” (named after one of the founders, Antoine LeCoultre).
In this integrated atelier, fine brushes are used by talented hands to deliver miniature paintings. Talented engravers leave their mark, not only with initials of the owners but also as coat of arms or complicated artworks, many of which are showcased at the 'Reverso: Timeless Stories Since 1931' exhibition, which is open to the public until December 24.
“I hope that families will visit and share the impressions and emotions connected to the Maison,” Rénier says when asked with what impressions she thinks the exhibition will leave the visitors.
“I hope the children will be fascinated by our rare and unique crafts and hopefully show an interest in mechanical watchmaking. And I hope they will all enjoy the wonderful Art Deco-inspired pastries in our 1931 Cafe on the top floor.”
Pastry chef Nina Métayer has created a special Art Deco-inspired selection of treats for the exhibition.
The delightful pastries created by Paris-based chef Nina Métayer were indeed tasty. However, my appetite is set on something else: the manual wind Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds with the stunning blue dial on the front side.
The reverse side of the watch offers a silvery dial with a secondary timezone and a day/night indicator. This spectacular and multifunctional Reverso is fitted with a lavish leather strap made by legendary Argentinian polo boot-makers Casa Fagliano and represents the brand's rich history in an exquisite yet sporty way.
Such a timepiece is emblematic of how telling a story like no other wristwatch has secured the unique position of the Reverso and ensured its enduring popularity. Something that will undoubtedly last long after the centenary is celebrated come 2031.