Fashion / Society

Bloom or bust: When it comes to this season’s florals, think big

By Marie-Claire Chappet

Floral printed top, €220. Saks Potts. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Florals for spring? Ground-breaking… But this season, don't expect wilting daisies. SS22 petals are packing some serious punch. Gone are the darling buds of May, delicate vines and quaint chintz motifs. Instead, think oversized and unapologetic. This trend is not for wallflowers

Taking on this season's hottest look means reframing our view of florals. Lean away from subdued and polite posies and wear patterns that shout loud. Saks Potts’ digitally printed top with corsage detail screams bold flower power in visceral reds, fuchsias and oranges, Ganni’s acid yellow and blue florals lend a nu-rave sensitivity to a soft pink dress and there’s a cool modernity to Giambattista Valli’s lime green and avocado posy-print poplin co-ord. Then there is Saint Laurent by Anthony Vacarello’s skin-tight bodysuit, with the rose motif and patent leather belt of a ladylike fit and flare dress translated into in-your-face modern sexiness.

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The best bouquets are, of course, a potent blend of flowers. So, indulge your inner maximalist and clash prints, like this highlighter-yellow Coperni top worn beneath the psychedelic floral of this Stine Goya dress with matching stockings or Colville’s brown and white sixties mish-mash, with geometric shapes dancing beneath exaggerated daisies. And indeed, this battle of the motifs, in swirling, oversized, unrepentantly loud hues, is a noticeably sixties revival trend. Just look at the raspberry and tangerine palette of Paco Rabanne’s printed dress and jacquard scarf. The designs take their cues from cult sofa prints and Tupperware patterns, but are beautifully elevated by swirling silk tailoring.

Jersey catsuit, €1,690. Leather corset belt, €795. Gold metal earrings, €895. All Saint Laurent by Anthony Vacarello. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

When embracing florals this season, remember it is not just design which takes the spotlight, but proportions. So, opt for dramatic dimensions which radically take up space. Simone Rocha’s tulle creations are famed for this outlook and can turn your entire silhouette into a flower itself. Layering is also key; like the king-size sleeves on Ganni’s white blouse, slipped underneath an asymmetric floral bustier by Sportmax. These playful sizes also balance out the competing influences of restrained blossoms and the hottest hot-house flowers. The simplicity of Miu Miu’s white mini is elevated by a smattering of embroidered cornflower blue sprays, just as a simple pair of jeans can be brought to life with sewn-on white roses.

The angular shoulders and structural draping of Del Core’s silk kimono offsets the femininity of its pink hue and orchid print and the spirited appliqued daisies of Marni’s patchwork leather skirt provide a new level of tactility and theatrics. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood’s gold lace embroidered dress is a masterclass in maintaining this equilibrium. The floral lace embroidery and delicate overlay is balanced out with the high-drama of the oversized sleeves and exposed corsetry.

This season, put the power in flower power, and remember that florals are not for fading into the background. They really can be ground-breaking.

Embroidered silk dress, €6,485. Miu Miu. Net gloves, €55. Rhanders. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Chemise shirt, price on request. Cut-out halterneck top, worn underneath, €900. Upcycled skirt, €1,200. All Colville. Leather trousers, €6,250. Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Printed floral dress, €990. Paco Rabanne. Organza dress with embroidery details, worn underneath, price on request. Valentino. Printed jacquard scarf, €250. Paco Rabanne. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Asymmetric bustier top, price on request. Sportmax. Wide-sleeved blouse, worn underneath, €215. Ganni. Denim trousers. Stylist’s own. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Silk kimono, price on request. Del Core. Silk dress, worn underneath, €485. Ganni. Leather slingbacks, €852. Miu Miu. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Patchwork leather skirt, €1,290. Marni. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Tulle blouse, €915. Ballet tulle dress, €1,495. Ribbed knee-high socks, €340. All Simone Rocha. Lace tights. Stylist’s own. High top sneakers, €75. Converse. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Floral printed top, €220. Saks Potts. Satin skirt, €1,380. Prada. Knit tights. Stylist’s own. Leather sling-backs, €852. Miu Miu. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Short-sleeve blouse, €850. High waist poplin skirt, €1,500. Both Giambattista Valli. Pearl and crystal beaded tiara, €400. Simone Rocha. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Gold lace embroidered dress, price on request. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. Embellished linen top, worn underneath, €1,350. Erdem. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Embroidered silk dress, €6,485. Miu Miu. Net gloves, €55. Rhanders. Lace tights. Stylist’s own. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Jacquard dress, €2,500. Balenciaga. Floral dress, €320. Stine Goya. Halterneck top, worn underneath, €190. Coperni. Printed stockings, €40. Stine Goya. Knitted socks, price on request. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivenne Westwood. Photo: Marco Van Rijt

Photographer: Marco Van Rijt
Stylist: Rikke Wackerhausen
Model: Ajak Deng
Hair Stylist: Amandine Kila
Makeup Artist: Trine Skjøth
Photographer Assistants: Kenneth Meng, Andrea Overbye
Stylist Assistant: Philip Sandau
Special thanks to: Tabelau

Header Image: Floral printed top, €220. Saks Potts.