Culture / Society

When your canvas is cake: Meet the pastry chef making dessert into a work of art

By Saskia Neuman

Photo: Lars Bronseth.

Discover the show-stopping creations of Elle Azhdari, who is inspired by everyone from the likes of Versace to David Bowie

I had heard about Elle Azhdari through mutual friends. A glamorous Persian woman, originally a designer and creative director, who dreams up the most eye catching and delicious pastry art, often featured in magazines and on in-the-know Instagram feeds. Seeing her work at a gallery opening earlier this year for another Vogue Scandinavia favourite, Norwegian artist Constance Tenvik, was a tantalising experience. Azhdari’s edible creations were front and centre in all their eye-watering glory. Presented on pedestals, the vibrant creations were like edible extensions of the artwork and their luminescent colours and un-pastry like shapes were more akin to something out of a futuristic film.

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Azhdari strikes me as someone who is daring and bold, and my assumptions are confirmed as soon as we meet in a dingy dive bar close to Odenplan, in Stockholm. "When I get an idea, I become obsessive and quickly learn as much as I can about it, then I put blinkers on and just go for it. One thing usually leads to another... I’m fearless in my approach, don't mind failure at all, and I most definitely don't care about what others think of me, or my work, which is probably what keeps me going," she says, laughing.

Photo: Lars Bronseth.

Photo: Lars Bronseth.

Azhdari grew up in Sweden, coming with her family as political refugees fleeing from Iran in the late 1980s. After graduating, Azhdari left for Spain, and then later moved to London for university. The time spent in the UK had a huge impact on her. "London has definitely shaped me and my artistic expression the most. I guess it makes the most sense as I've spent most of my life there, especially during such explorative years," she says. Being exposed to a plethora of cultures, music, film, and art was key, "although my Persian heritage is always present in every creative endeavour – I guess it's in my DNA."

So why baking? "It hadn’t crossed my mind to be honest," she says. "I didn't bake growing up, but was raised in a social household where food was eminent. My mother suggested I explore baking, perhaps she saw something I didn't..."

After some 18 years in London and New York, Azhdari returned to Sweden completely burnt out in 2018. "I took over a year off and just focused on getting my health back on track. Then, I started cooking… you're talking to someone who used her oven to store sunglasses." Baking followed, and she found the science coupled with design and the strive for perfection satisfying. This led her to treat her oven more seriously, and she soon undertook an apprenticeship with world renowned Swedish pastry chef Daniel Roos.

Photo: Lars Bronseth.

Inspired by everyone from fashion designer Gianni Versace, artists Shirin Neshat and James Turrell, to legendary musician David Bowie, Azhdari uses her experience and vast knowledge of art, fashion, and music to inspire her in creating these trippy edible masterpieces. But Azhdari admits that as she has matured in her practice her need for stimulation has actually abated slightly. "I don’t need the same amount of activity and constant visual impressions," she says.

Still, she remains curious, admitting she probably won't ever "tire of learning, travelling and immersing myself in cheap thrills," but her main source of creativity derives from whimsical encounters, inspiring conversations, everyday joyful moments such as a trip to the cinema or local theme park, and, unsurprisingly, psychedelics.

Photo: Lars Bronseth.

Photo: Lars Bronseth.

Photo: Lars Bronseth.

The cakes are edible sculptures. Eager to understand how her signature aesthetic developed, I press the pastry artist on how her practice evolved. "I'm big on visualisation, and I knew that if I was to embark on pastry design it had to be modern pastry infused with colour and art, something that would combine my interests," she explains. Essentially, the creations are an extension of her vision as an artist. "I'm also a big believer in 'you get inspired by doing'. I just started experimenting and one thing led to another."

After discovering airbrush spray guns, Azhdari completely fell in love with mixing her own colours and shades, with an aim to create tantalising edible artworks with a limited shelf life. That may be, but what about those of us who just can't bring themselves to spoil the canvas and delve in with our big, destructive spoons? "I want the participant to feel two emotions at once when they see my work; elevated and repulsed," she says with a grin.

And she's far from finished. Azhdari has been busy in the kitchen working on various creative commissions and pastry sculptures (yes, they are a thing) as well as a tailored pastry and tequila sensory experience, set to debut in 2023. My stomach is rumbling at the very thought...