Could nostalgia be why fashion has a fancy for cartoons?

Nostalgia has become a theme that dominates the fashion industry. Take Spanish luxury fashion house Loewe, for example. Partnering with Hayao Miyazaki's Studio Ghibli, the brand's first cartoon collaboration was released in 2022. The collection featured motifs from the now-iconic *Spirited Away", which received an Oscar at the 75th Academy Awards for Best Animated Feature (at the time, it was the first film to win this award which was originally produced in a language other than English), seeing familiar characters emblazoned across ready-to-wear, blankets and scarves, as well as appearing on leather and canvas bags; The young protagonist Chihiro, mysterious Haku, sorceress Yubaba, and Kaonashi (the spirit with no face), Fly-Bird and the Susuwatari soot sprites.

On the trail of the collection's massive success, more anime drops followed. "The world we are living in needs a counteract: not as an escape, but as a different outlook," said creative director Jonathan Anderson on the brand's continued collaboration with the Japanese animation studio. "This, to me, is what Hayao Miyazaki’s animated films for Studio Ghibli are about: a commentary on the moment and an alternative to it, always heartfelt, fulfilling, full of fantasy and sentiment."

Earlier this year Loewe released the final instalment of its Studio Ghibli collaboration, covering its clothing and accessories in motifs and characters from the 2004 film Howl's Moving Castle. The film’s key characters – Sophie, Howl, fire demon Calcifer, as well as Markl, Heen, Turnip Head, and the Witch of the Waste – were drawn as leather or shearling intarsia, turned into embroidery on leather or textile, decorated with crystal and stud inlays on leather.

Scenes of the film were printed in the lining of tweed jackets, or all over shirts and shorts. "In the collection, we pushed creativity with bold, intricately crafted pieces designed to bring the world of the film, literally, to life," says Anderson. "Key pieces embody the beloved characters and backdrops, giving wearers the chance to identify with the film on a deep level and escape into its rich layers. It’s almost like handcrafted virtual reality in wearable form.

An ode to loyalty, friendship, and stubbornness in the face of adversity set against a backdrop of magic, imposing technology and the destructive
effects of war makes the story "incredibly resonating," according to Anderson. It also built on a legacy of animated tales taking children's stories seriously. The likes of The Adventures of Tintin by Hergé and Peanuts by Charles M. Schulz, both of which explored themes and plot lines that challenged the reader. "Cartoon characters from that era has a depth that is lacking in modern children's shows," says Soulland's creative director and co-founder Silas Adler, who uses cartoons frequently in his designs. "Back then, they would cover more challenging subjects, have a bit more depth that today is boiled down to something basic and simple."

For those who grew up during the turn of the millennia, the experience of children's TV and cinema spanning time and generations is self-evident. Tintin and Snoopy were just two amongst many, with the likes of Scooby-Doo (1960s version, of course) and Tom and Jerry being equally beloved by children, parents and grandparents.

With the Y2K revival, the inclusion of pop culture that came to define the era is only natural. The current shift towards cartoon collaborations is tangible. We've already brought up Loewe's final instalment with Studio Ghibli. Coach incorporated the DC universe in their latest collection, the mark of 'The man of steal' spotted on knitted dresses in the autumn/winter 2023 collection while GCDS presented a playful take on SpongeBob SquarePants for spring/summer 2023.

These occurrences of animated figures on the runway builds on multiple cartoon capsules and collections over the past couple of seasons – exemplified by the likes of Lanvin's Catwoman bags or Balenciaga's show-stealing Paris Fashion Week in The Simpsons episode during the spring/summer 2022 season, later releasing a capsule collection honouring the show's iconic characters.

Related: A wardrobe refresh: what we will be wearing in 2022

This yearning to return to simpler times is arguably a result of our current climate. Cartoon collaborations, as a result, are genius. Recognisable characters, especially those from our childhoods, inspire feelings of nostalgia. "Cartoons give a sense of comfort and safety when there's so much instability in our world," adds Adler. Maybe that's why Adler's Copenhagen-based brand frequently turn to the beloved cartoon figures – be it Snoopy and Peanuts for its SS22 collection, or the just-released Hello Kitty capsule. "What hooks me is when it's about characters and concepts that transcend time and keep being relevant," the creative director explains.

"Our fascination for cartoons started almost 10 years ago when I had my first son and rediscovered one of my favourites as a kid, Babar the Elephant," Adler explains. "Rereading it as an adult, I realised that it's a universe that's relevant for both kids and adults. It's universal and timeless in a way."

Soulland became the first brand to be licensed the characters of 1931 Histoire de Babar written by Jean de Brunhoff whose characters were quintessentially well-cut with suits and bowler hats. Considering the children's book keen eye for style, it is unsurprising to learn that Brunhoff's brother was the editor-in-chief of French Vogue, and brother-in-law a director at Condé Nast. Since Soulland's collection in 2013, the 'King of the Elephants' has became a fashion favourite. His sartorial crown remaining secure with his image being used by the likes of Lanvin and Rowing Blazers.

After the first cartoon clad collection, the fictive figures fell off Soulland's radar for a long time. It wasn't until Adler's second son was born that he rediscovered the charm of cartoons. "My wife started buying vintage Snoopy figurines in second-hand shops and at yard sales, and I had that same feeling and associations. The Snoopy and Peanut universe had that same philosophical tendency and universal appeal," he says, speaking on the SS22 collection. "That's why I thought it would fit into Soulland's design language.”

Related: How to take your classic capsule wardrobe to the next level

The world of cartoons is in it's most concise form a world of reverie and escapism. The turn of the millennia saw a seismic shift in our society, with the generations who grew up before the 2000s having a far more positive and future-facing outlook than those who grew up after. Nostalgia – whether felt for your own youth or the youth of generations that came before – is an integral part of culture for Millennials and Generation Z.

These nostalgic generations witnessed their world change in just a few short years during their childhood. As a result, it made them feel much older than they are and long to be much younger than they feel. The rise of vinyl, polaroids, rotary phones and pop culture of the time coincide with these generations becoming adults.

Upon reflection, the coveted nature of cartoon collaborations be it in haute couture or on the high street is entirely unsurprising.