What exactly is a cosmetic chemist and do you need one?

Can you remember what the beauty industry looked like pre-social media? No, we can’t either. It feels as if influencers have forever changed the face of it, engaging their vast followings with skincare routines and unboxing videos, winning the public’s interest with fetchingly edited reels, photos and videos, leading many to question the old school, more traditional ways of marketing, such as Television commercials and print campaigns.

And brands have grown smart to it, with investment in these individuals having skyrocketed in recent years. With the skincare industry as a whole being one of the more resilient industries that has managed to successfully weather the storm of the pandemic, developing into a sector predicted to increase to a global market size of $415.29 billion by 2028.  

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But in the same breath, customers are becoming more sensitive to what's genuine and authentic online. Research shows shoppers often find advertising products for money unappealing and sponsored content risks turning younger shoppers off.  It’s a bit of a conundrum: how will brands keep up with the increasingly scrutinising customers when the slightest slip can jeopardise their trust?  And could a new category of influencers, known as the cosmetic chemist, perhaps be the answer to how brands can earn trustworthiness?

“Cosmetic chemists provide formulation experience. We understand how pH, temperature, and ingredient interactions affect a formula. And more specifically, we know ingredients on a deeper level," explains Esther Olu, a cosmetic chemist and licensed esthetician. Most online cosmetic chemists have a formal education in various scientific backgrounds, including an understanding of biology, chemistry and pharmacology. 

Olu says influencing, specifically science-trained influencing, wasn’t something she ever planned on doing and rather fell into it accidently. "I was doing my master's degree and wanted to create an outlet on social media where I spoke about scientific aspects of the beauty industry,” she says. Although passionate about skincare, she had no intention of altering her whole career path based around it. But as more people discovered her content, her accounts started to gain traction.

Jen Novakovich has spent much of her career working as a cosmetic chemist and doing freelance science writing on the side. She started the former while she was still an undergrad, and now she has a double degree in two biological sciences.

"I studied cosmetic chemistry, followed by an MSc in environmental practice, focused on the environmental impact and assessment of cosmetics,” explains Novakovich, who also boasts a graduate certificate in climate change policy focusing on sustainability legislation that impacts the cosmetics sector.

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But it was her experience spent science writing that inspired her passion for science communication.  Now she can be seen on Instagram posting explanations on everything from how ‘You are not saving the environment by buying “green” products to ‘How natural is not always greener’.

Novakovich also hosts e-conferences that attempt to democratise accurate information for the cosmetics industry, especially for resource-limited smaller brands and independent professionals.  So, what exactly led her to pursue a career online?

"It came with the launch of my podcast in 2016, which connected me to social media. As an influencer, I only do educational-style partnerships, and this is a stipulation for any sponsorships I do. I don't do public paid reviews, rather, if brands want feedback from me, I work in a consultant capacity with formulation and regulatory overviews. This setup works for me,” she explains.

When you’re browsing for beauty advice online, who do you prefer to turn to? Dr Julian Sass, director of research and education at skincare brand Matter of Fact, says that utilising the knowledge of someone such as Novakovich and Olu can be essential.

"It's necessary to know that when you work with a chemist or an R&D expert, their claims are science-backed and rooted in knowledge about how products are formulated and their effects on the skin,” he says, "the best partnerships with industry experts should have a mix of expertise and personal experiences."