A host of exciting new designers, a return of several beloved ones, and a fresh change-up of the format. These are the key takeaways from today's Copenhagen Fashion Week spring/summer '25 line-up announcement
“This season will prove why Copenhagen Fashion Week continues to grow not only as an organisation and a global activation but as a way of thinking and state of mind,” says Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of CPHFW. What exactly about the spring/summer '25 season, taking place from 5th to 9th August, will prove this? The brand line-up, released today, is a strong start. 46 international and Nordic brands are confirmed across the four days, with steadfast favourites such as Rotate, Saks Potts and Baum und Pferdgarten bolstering the line-up.
But show-goers and the usual hoards of international spectators can expect some updates to proceedings, with the return of beloved Scandinavian names (di)vision and Jade Cropper, and a fresh influx of new designers. “Against a relentless economic, political and environmental climate that has not failed to throw continuous obstacles into the face of this industry, we have never been so proud to represent so many tenacious, driven and purposeful brands,” Thorsmark says. As usual, all 46 brands have qualified for participation through CPHFW's unique screening process, the criteria of which considers both design elements and full value chain perspectives – in line with the mandatory 18 Minimum Standards.
Read on to discover our six key takeaways from the CPHFW SS25 schedule and full list of brands.
The program now includes designer presentations
Alongside its usual format of runway show, CPHFW is now welcoming brand presentations to its official schedule. The new dual approach is being implemented with the hope of offering a more expressive and dynamic offering to designers and guests alike – to further cement CPHFW's position as one of the leading fashion week's globally.
Ganni remains absent from the schedule
After sitting out last season's autumn/winter '24 schedule, Ganni will continue its absence from CPHFW this season. The Danish brand, which has recently appointed a new CEO, has previously shared reasoning for the pause as an opportunity for Ganni to “reconsider the vision for our shows and prioritise local key brand projects across Asia and the US,” while indicating the fan-favourite would eventually make a return.
A model backstage at Ganni's last CPHFW runway show, during the SS24 season. Photo: The Streetland
(di)vision and Jade Cropper are back
(di)vision staged one of CPHFW's most viral runway moments in autumn/winter '23 (that tablecloth stunt), then left us hungry for more as it stepped away from the show schedule for two seasons. Now, the wait is over, as the Danish brand makes its runway homecoming for SS25, which has us abuzz with anticipation. Alongside (di)vision, Swedish designer Jade Cropper – who counts Hadids and Jenners amid her fans –is also making a CPHFW comeback for SS25, bringing her figure-hugging, experimental designs back to the Danish capital.
London-based Swedish brand Per Gotesson is joining the line-up
The SS25 schedule is also welcoming two exciting imports from London. The first is Swedish-born, London-based designer Per Gotesson, a Beckmans alum who captured the attentions of the fashion world with a series of pre-Covid shows for his namesake label's masterful reinterpretation of masculine codes. Since then, Gotesson's seasonal approach has taken place off the runway – until his upcoming rostering at CPHFW, that is.
Sinéad O'Dwyer holds the coveted Zalando Visionary Award slot
Joining Gotesson in the London-based contingent at CPHFW is Zalando Visionary Award winner Sinéad O'Dwyer, whose graduate collection featured sculptural designs part-moulded from body parts – exploring perceptions and realities of our human form. O'Dwyer's opportunity to present her spring/summer collection during the CPHFW August edition forms part of the Zalando's esteemed price, which reflects its purposeful vision to highlight and support emerging talents.
“Sinéad O’Dwyer clearly demonstrates the values that we want to see and embodies the spirit of the Zalando Visionary Award,” says Lena Sophie Röper, Zalando Visionary Award jury member and director of designer & luxury at Zalando says. “The brand strikes the right balance of these values with unique designs, innovative solutions with a provocative, wearable and exciting collection.”
Danish brand Bonnetje is one to watch
Founded by Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Hansen in 2021, Bonnetje had a presence at CPHFW for the AW24 circuit but will officially join the schedule for the upcoming August edition. Myntekær's experience with couturieres and Cecilie Bahnsen, together with Hansen's skills honed at Maison Margiela with John Galliano, make for a design pairing that are bound to do big things. A major design moment the brand already has under its belt? Producing two of the footwear designs worn by Björk in Vogue Scandinavia's latest cover story.
Photo: @bonnetje
Discover the full CPHFW SS25 brand line-up below:
(di)vision
A. Roege Hove (CPHFW NEWTALENT Alumni)
Aiayu
Alectra Rothschild / MASCULINA (CPHFW NEWTALENT)
Another Aspect
Baum Und Pferdgarten
Berner Kühl CPHFW NEWTALENT
Bonnetje One To Watch
Caro Editions
CMMN SWDN
Deadwood
Fine Chaos
Forza Collective
Gestuz
H2OFagerholt
Han Kjøbehavn
Henrik Vibskov
Herskind
Jade Cropper
Joao Maraschin
La Bagatelle
Latimmier (CPHFW NEWTALENT Alumni)
Lovechild 1979
Marimekko
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
MLGA
Munthe
Nicklas Skovgaard (CPHFW NEWTALENT Alumni)
OpéraSport
Per Gotesson
Rabens Saloner
Remain
Rolf Ekroth (CPHFW NEWTALENT)
Rotate
Saks Potts
Sinéad O’Dwyer
Skall Studio
Sól Hansdóttir
Stamm (CPHFW NEWTALENT)
Stem
Stine Goya
Swedish School of Textiles
The Garment
The Royal Danish Academy
Ukrainian Fashion Week
Won Hundred