Closet care: This is how to wash your vintage pieces, according to experts

How often have we found ourselves rummaging through various vintage stores, walls lined with row upon row of potential kernels of sartorial gold, just to become overwhelmed and leaving empty-handed?

Purveying pre-loved is, in itself, a draining and time-consuming task. But the aftercare required when bringing a piece home is equally daunting. While most second-hand shops have a rigid regiment when washing their wares before sales, it is almost always necessary to give your new pre-loved pieces some TLC when bringing them home. “Two words: refresh and repair,” says Lovisa Källström, the founder of Hailey Bieber’s favourite Stockholm vintage store, Worn Vintage. “It’s simple - just devoting a little care to our garments can result in a longer lifespan.” Cherie Balch, the founder of Shrimpton Couture – whose vintage garments have been worn by celebrities like Rihanna and Katy Perry on the red carpet – agrees. “The vast majority of things benefit from a go-over,” she says. “And I think it is important to also have a bit of the mindset that not everything has to be perfect. Sometimes small imperfections and natural patina add to the vintage charm a piece has.”

According to Marie Louise Schultz, the creative director and founder of The Vintage Bar – the Scandinavian It-girls' go-to source of pre-loved designer accessories – it’s important to remember that clothing and accessories have a life of their own and will change with time. “But that’s part of the charm,” she says. Buying vintage and second-hand clothing is an investment in your wardrobe, and you should care for it accordingly. “That means that you should always hang up your nice vintage Chanel jacket in tweed and brush off your Hermès sandals when you’ve worn them,” as Schultz points out.

One aspect of making your vintages wears last longer is how you store them. “If you buy a brightly coloured bag, keep it out of direct sunlight, for example, so you avoid discolouration,” says Schultz. “The same goes for all delicate materials. You should also avoid storing items with contrasting colours too closely as the colours might transfer.” Madeleine Frandsen, the founder of Elsa Hosk-endorsed upcycling brand Havre Studio, agrees. “Never hang the pieces right next to a window in terms of sun damage on the items,” she says. “I usually (before wearing them) do all the repairs necessary and all adjustments. Otherwise, you can get comfortable and 'forget' or put off doing them.”

Just as you would hang a jacket or coat to help it keep its shape, you should do the same with shoes and boots. “Stuff them when you’re not wearing them, and they’ll stay as they should for much longer,” Schultz says.

Below, find the expert’s tips on how to best care for those precious vintage pieces in your wardrobe:

You should remember that if your items are not dirty, they don’t need washing. “If you air them before you put them away, they won’t smell and won’t need to be washed as often,” as Schultz points out. “ I think the less you can wash them, the better as well,” Frandsen adds. “But I always recommend washing your clothes when you get your item through the door.”

“If you get a stain on a second-hand item, don’t immediately put stain remover on it,” Schultz says. “Read the care labels carefully and perhaps take it to a professional cleaner first, depending on the material and your experience in dealing with that fabric.” Källström’s best tip is to treat each spot individually. “Buy special soap for different garments (wool, cashmere, leather etc.), and treat spots as they come,” she says. “If a wash is needed, wash at 30 degrees which is more environmentally (and clothing) friendly.”

Before even attempting to hand wash your vintage garment, however, ensure the fabric can handle it. “Before washing anything at home, you should try to assess that it is, in fact, washable,” says Balch. “When in doubt, talk to a reputable cleaner. Some even will offer a hand wash or speciality service if you ask.”

If you want to wash it yourself, you can always start with a hand wash to be as gentle as possible. Fill a sink with warm water, add soap and slowly soak your garment. Carefully massage your item and press – don’t wring – out excess water when you’re done. Depending on the material, you should perhaps dry it on a flat surface. “A gentle machine cycle with cold or warm water instead of hot is also a better option in terms of being careful,” Schultz says, but this should be avoided if possible”, says Schultz. “Regardless of instructions, I always hand wash or cold wash pieces or have them dry cleaned,” agrees Frandsen. “And don’t put them in the dryer!”

Drying vintage clothes is just as important as correct washing procedures. “Depending on the weight and size of the clothes, you can either hang it or lay it flat to dry,” says Källström. “Buy good hangers – wood is better than plastic and metal.” Lastly, keep your garments in a dry and dark place and invest in some cedar balls to keep moths away.

“It’s always worth remembering that accidents happen,” says Schultz. “In these cases, you can always try to get them fixed or style your way out of it like previously mentioned.” For Källström, a good tailor you trust is an easy solution for any wear and tear. “Many flaws can be repaired pretty easily, so it’s just a matter of how big the flaw is and if it’s fixable,” she says. “If an imperfection can’t be fixed - hide it by applying embroidery. Also, embrace that some items will likely have imperfections due to their pre-loved wear.”

But if you can’t live with the flaw, it is often safe to assume that someone else can. “Make sure to give resale a try, and you might just be able to make someone’s day with your faulty item,” Schultz says.