Fashion / Society

Engarde: This season's top dog looks are all about body armour

By Marie-Claire Chappet

Open back bodysuit, €550, Skirt, €600, Sunglasses, €490. All Courrèges. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Shell jackets and turtlenecks, thigh-highs and shield shades – styling this season comes with an unexpected element of protection. Guard dog optional (but encouraged)

Suits of armour have never looked so chic… nor so modern. This season’s take on practical outerwear is a curious blend of technical fabrics, luxe sportswear and built-in defence systems. Jackets and coats are puffed and elaborate, knitwear gets body armour worthy of the mightiest of warriors and even chintz dresses encase the body from fingertips to toe, like a second sartorial skin. With clothes like these, you won’t need a guard dog, but you’ll probably still want one.

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Practicality has so often felt like the death knell for style, but not so with this roster of outerwear options which ingeniously blend hardened technicality with soft fabrics like Paco Rabanne’s knitted structured dress. The tapered structure of Dries Van Noten’s fluted skirt and the contrast of its leather gloves and ruffled cotton dress show how best to mix textures. Max Mara’s nut-brown knitted sweater is a perfect example of this bewitching combination; the soft appeal of a cosy knit, with the padded sleeves of a Marvel superhero.

Organza top, worn underneath, €740, Knitted polo shirt, €850, Leather belt, €410, Satin shorts, €260. All Miu Miu. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Knitted wool sweater, €325, Wool trousers, €625, Both Max Mara. Golden metal earrings with pearl details, €590. Versace. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Superheroes are a subtle but clear inspiration for this look. Lanvin even partnered with DC Comics this season for a collection replete with Catwoman and Batman motifs, and who can forget Schiaparelli’s iconic abs dress, worthy of any caped avenger. This influence is also clear on Loewe’s woollen structured top, carved like a warrior’s breastplate.

Then there's Courrèges’s cut-out bodysuit paired beneath a vinyl mini, which implies you can save the world from unspeakable evil and still make after-work cocktails, whilst the closely cropped cut out mini dress from Isla Boulder perfectly blends the practical and the impractical, like any well-dressed hero.

Mini dress, €380, Knitted argyle sleeves, €200. Both Isa Boulder. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Much of this concept began with the skin-tight, all-in-ones made infamous by Balenciaga. The brand’s white and red floral dress and matching bodysuit will encase your entire form, for a most imaginative take on Marvel dressing.

Sportswear is the most playful iteration of this trend. It was sent down the runway at Boss, Stella McCartney and Giorgio Armani, often in sheer technical fabrics in bold hues or with a preppy varsity aesthetic. Masion Margiela’s rugby and American football inspired pieces take this latter approach, and are innovative wonders in royal red and blue with oversized white laces and quirky caps, layered above neoprene wetsuit tops and tempered for city-wear appeal with leather brogues and tailored shorts.

Puffer jacket, €1,145. Dries Van Noten. Polka dot dress, €755. Commission. Cotton top, worn underneath, €195. CH4RM. Boots. Model’s own. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Wool top, price upon request, Tailored wool trousers, price upon request, Leather sandals, €980. All Loewe. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Dries Van Noten’s ice white puffer jacket is cut to perfection and has an off-piste vibe for when the slopes are a distant memory. You need only team it with polka dots like Commission’s midi dress to show its transitional appeal.

Meanwhile, Miu Miu’s satin shorts borrow heavily from the tennis skirt aesthetic and they are best paired with the brand’s knitted polo shirt, both with a blue and red preppy trim. Both can be tempered with more formal accents, like the glimpse of an organza shirt peeking through or a classic leather belt.

Cotton shirt, €370, Neoprene cut off wetsuit top, worn underneath, €1,250, Belted punto shorts, €450, Cotton moto hat, price on request, Latex socks, price on request, Leather shoes, €750. All Maison Margiela. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Asymmetric dress, €2,900, Bodysuit, €3,200. Both Balenciaga. Photo: Fernando Uceda

For armouring yourself this season, the options are endless and imaginative. Cosy up with durable knits in structured designs or embrace a fantastical bent with outfits worthy of the Avengers. Join the team and play with sportswear or simply mix and match effortless protective garb with sleek everyday pieces. Dog optional, though warmly encouraged.

Wool turtleneck, €550. Etro. Skirt, price on request. Simone Rocha. Golden metal choker with pearl details, €1,390. Versace. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Dress, €1,990. Paco Rabanne. Hairband. Stylists own. Leather boots, €845. Dries Van Noten. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Sweater in alpaca wool, €660, Skirt, €895. Dries Van Noten. Dog bone necklace. Stylist’s own. Leather boots, €845. Dries Van Noten. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Cotton dress with ruffles, €1,200. Ports 1961. Choker. Model’s own. Gloves, €250, Leather boots, €845. Both Dries Van Noten. Photo: Fernando Uceda

Photographer: Fernando Uceda
Stylist: Anna Schiffel
Makeup Artist: Kathy Le Sant
Hair Stylist: Rimi Ura
Nail Artist: Chloé Nguyen
Photographer Assistants: Greg Ponthus Thi-Léa
Stylist Assistant: Emil Kosuge
Models: Oudey Egone @ouimanagement
Polly Domashych @city-models
Sofija Tsalei @titaniummanagement
Irene Guarenas @ouimanagement
Emmy Rappe @elitemodel
Akira Reid @ouimanagement
Casting: Ikki Casting
Production: Laura Soto

Special thanks to: Isis and Kenji, Dominique and Escobar, Alexandra and Samson, Heloise and Pamplemousse, Laura and Ragnan, Camille and Soho and Marion and Nala, Ayame and Tenko And Julie at Dog Coach.