Frederik Berner Kühl's latest collection is a deep dive through the brand's workwear archive
When crafting a new collection for his eponymous brand, designer Frederik Berner Kühl tends to go around in circles. While always rooted in utility, sourcing inspiration from old workwear and expedition gear, the designer wanted to find new ways to translate modularity and preservation into his collection this season. "I like that you can create an even more confined wardrobe if you work in a modular way," he explains. "Doing the same style in different materials and having several styles in the same fabrication, my idea of ultimate materiality makes way." Regarding preservation, Berner Kühl has been looking into the actual process of creating the garments, adding as much value to the process as the final product itself. "We are trying to create something that is very long-term and destined to last for a long time." Thus every little detail we put into the product is essential to prolong its lifespan. "Either as shelter or as uniform," Kühl says.
On the runway, this search for preserving the craftsmanship of workwear was translated into sturdy structures of Japanese denim and double-bonded nylon, emulating an almost woollen texture in the brand's outerwear styled with black knee high socks, silver jewellery and anonymous sunglasses. In addition, the airy quality of leno weave linen lends a softness to the collection without compromising the longevity of the garments.
As always, the colours are somewhat subdued. "We don't want something being out of fashion in a year because the colour was wrong," Kühl explains. That being said, a pop of diluted lime contrasts the monochromatic palette, providing some playfulness to the collection. The silhouette, compared to previous seasons, is leaning towards an overall roomier fit with certain pieces sculpted closer to the body, "so the general look does not become slouchy," as Kühl points out.
Discover the full collection below:
Berner Kühl SS23
